67 barracuda grill colors
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Thanks Wayne, is the other side of rivet flat or domed? Oem and the ones I have are domed. I can back it with a block of wood with slight countersink.
They're domed. Can't remember if I backed it up with a domed set or just a bucking bar. Pretty sure it was just a bar with no head deformation. I'll look back thru my pics..
Ya, I just backed it up with a bucking bar.. no cup, no issues.
wow that came o
wow that came out really nice
hemifiedbird
Well-Known Member
This is my 67 Formula S
I was referring to my Bee grill that was restored. The 67 Forumula S shown is OE, never been touched. Car only has about 3800 miles on it.
Gonna put all my 67 grill questions here lol. There may be a few lol.
I have a spare set of 67 grills and a bezel that I will use as guinea pigs.
Got a mix of colors of rouge. You will see a pic of 2 "browns", altho one pkg calls one red and the other pkg calls the other one brown. Look the same to me??
Lye crystals I've had for a few years now.
Soaked one grill just to submerge enough of the outer "C" surrounds. I didn't want to submerge the inner fins or the smaller surrounding aluminum "C".
Also at the outside end of the fins is a black plastic support piece. Not sure if the lye concentration would damage it?
Lots of tedious work if I decide to do it. The original grills are in pretty good shape and not sure if the effort is worth it. If I strip the original ones they would require more polishing(so I've read).
After a 25 min soak with a tbsp of lye crystals/gal of warm water and a very slight polish with hand held drill.
Would the fins and the end plastic piece withstand the lye concentration? These are spares, but nice and don't wanna ruin them lol
Thanks
Steve
I have a spare set of 67 grills and a bezel that I will use as guinea pigs.
Got a mix of colors of rouge. You will see a pic of 2 "browns", altho one pkg calls one red and the other pkg calls the other one brown. Look the same to me??
Lye crystals I've had for a few years now.
Soaked one grill just to submerge enough of the outer "C" surrounds. I didn't want to submerge the inner fins or the smaller surrounding aluminum "C".
Also at the outside end of the fins is a black plastic support piece. Not sure if the lye concentration would damage it?
Lots of tedious work if I decide to do it. The original grills are in pretty good shape and not sure if the effort is worth it. If I strip the original ones they would require more polishing(so I've read).
After a 25 min soak with a tbsp of lye crystals/gal of warm water and a very slight polish with hand held drill.
Would the fins and the end plastic piece withstand the lye concentration? These are spares, but nice and don't wanna ruin them lol
Thanks
Steve
Here's after a total of 45 min soak. I then used superfine steel wool and soap. Then a foam sanding block(unknown grit).
Still a fair amount of anodizing by the looks of it?
I've added 2 tbsps of crystals to old solution. Theoretically doubled the strength.
Still a fair amount of anodizing by the looks of it?
I've added 2 tbsps of crystals to old solution. Theoretically doubled the strength.
If you care to follow it through for about 6 pages Steve, this is the tail panel restoration on my 69 Super Bee...
1969 Dodge Super Bee Coupe Restoration
1969 Dodge Super Bee Coupe Restoration
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Good read Wayne, thanks! Tedious and time consuming but great results with the right "cores".
Silly question Wayne, but now that anodizing is stripped are the panels "high maintenence"?
Still undecided whether to totally dismantle, but leaning towards leaving rivets alone and stripping anodize and paint.
Here's the results after over a total hour soak. Started sanding at 150 grit, 220, 275,320,400,800. Then buffing wheel on drill with black rouge.
The inner real shiny part had next to zero pits or damage so it shined up nice.
Major difference in the front leading slanted edge, but u can still see small pits.
Silly question Wayne, but now that anodizing is stripped are the panels "high maintenence"?
Still undecided whether to totally dismantle, but leaning towards leaving rivets alone and stripping anodize and paint.
Here's the results after over a total hour soak. Started sanding at 150 grit, 220, 275,320,400,800. Then buffing wheel on drill with black rouge.
The inner real shiny part had next to zero pits or damage so it shined up nice.
Major difference in the front leading slanted edge, but u can still see small pits.
Well after the paint cured it got a coat of Maguirs Gold wax. 6+ years now and no oxidation.
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Gentlemen, I hate to change the subject but... can anyone tell me the name or color code of this Barracuda? Thanks! Bob
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Well seeing it's my Wife's car, I guess I'll have a go at it! LOL LL1 Dark Turquoise
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It has been painted, unfortunately. Car only has 3690 miles on it, but a dealer two toned it and it was brought back to correct.... well other than it's base coat, clear coat and the '68 stripe needs to go (but you convince the Wife of that!).
Yesterday...
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It sure is a beauty!
So I've gotten some decent results with sanding. Lots more to do, but front facing is at about 1000 grit. Ill go to 2000 by wet/hand. Right now im struggling with replacing a missing "stud/clip" on a support bracket.
I'm trying to replace with a couple different Papco sizes, and no go.
Altho this is a 67 grill, 68 is the same.
This bracket is held in place by 2 tubular rivets, which I gently removed by light drilling and an automatic center punch. The Papco clip "pushes" on the support bracket enough that the holes where tubular rivets were do not line up.
I'm hoping these pics and my translation make sense?
I'm trying to replace with a couple different Papco sizes, and no go.
Altho this is a 67 grill, 68 is the same.
This bracket is held in place by 2 tubular rivets, which I gently removed by light drilling and an automatic center punch. The Papco clip "pushes" on the support bracket enough that the holes where tubular rivets were do not line up.
I'm hoping these pics and my translation make sense?
Moving slowly still looking for proper hardware for that small "T bracket ".
On to the inner piece for now.
Does anyone know if the lye will damage the black "plastic" curved piece (see me finger) . The aluminum outer piece outside of the egg crate is nice but anodizing is faded. I wouldn't mind stripping it with lye, but worried about damage to egg crate and to plastic curved piece.
Thanks
Steve
On to the inner piece for now.
Does anyone know if the lye will damage the black "plastic" curved piece (see me finger) . The aluminum outer piece outside of the egg crate is nice but anodizing is faded. I wouldn't mind stripping it with lye, but worried about damage to egg crate and to plastic curved piece.
Thanks
Steve
Seeing my my lye "tank" was nothing but 6 mil plastic I doubt it. You could always throw an ABS plumbing fitting in as a test..
D'oh! My tub is from CT. Makes sense it should survive. The dunk would only be for 20 min?
Thanks
Thanks
Tedious but making progress. Found fix for a couple buggered up studs. I cheated twice on this. I had painted the black stripe and it needed improving. I ended up running trim tape over top and helped "even" out the look. Cheat #2 was using blind rivets in a couple spots. The cloaest size had a tan color painted on them. Gotta scuff that off on 2 of them. In all i used 6 rivets. 2 are totally hidden and the other 4 are in in the upper half. You have to kneel down and look up to notice.
Next is inner honey comb and surround.
I've had to dunk it several times I think lye solution is weakening.
Next is inner honey comb and surround.
I've had to dunk it several times I think lye solution is weakening.
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Inner on pass side done. To be honest I'm dreading doing drivers side lol. I'm not even half way done lol. Inners sanded by hand to 2000, then polished with drill and rouge. Starting with black and ending with blue? A card I have states it's the finest? Dunno. It's way better than it was, not totally happy with leading edge as more sanding should have been done, BUT the leading edge isn't rounded, it's angular like a shitty valve job lol.
I then worked on cleaning honeycomb. Tedious and we will see how durable it is as it is near 1st line of defense.
Spray primed, then Beautitone satin black, then Beautitone Semigloss Clearcoat.
Letting cure, then lightly scuffing leading edge of honeycomb. Well see if I like or not.
Oh I also used Blue Magic metal polish. It has a "protectant" of some sort.
Hope to assemble/reinstall soon lol.
I then worked on cleaning honeycomb. Tedious and we will see how durable it is as it is near 1st line of defense.
Spray primed, then Beautitone satin black, then Beautitone Semigloss Clearcoat.
Letting cure, then lightly scuffing leading edge of honeycomb. Well see if I like or not.
Oh I also used Blue Magic metal polish. It has a "protectant" of some sort.
Hope to assemble/reinstall soon lol.
Pass side all done. A couple blemishes, but still looks better than drive side with anodizing.
Onto the drivers side. Not a lot of dings thankfully. A couple places have had rivets replaced, will probably redo them.
Onto the drivers side. Not a lot of dings thankfully. A couple places have had rivets replaced, will probably redo them.
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