Current draw at start

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canyncarvr

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I do not have a tool to measure the current draw and won't bother making a shunt to enable the use of a 'regular' meter so, this question.

What is the current draw when starting? Numbers for both a direct drive Mopar starter and a mini-type would be appreciated.

It took years, but I finally got a roun-tuit that got a fuse installed in my trunk-mounted battery. I have a 200A fuse in it at the moment. That is probably a bit large...

Thanks.
 
I do not have a tool to measure the current draw and won't bother making a shunt to enable the use of a 'regular' meter so, this question.

What is the current draw when starting? Numbers for both a direct drive Mopar starter and a mini-type would be appreciated.

It took years, but I finally got a roun-tuit that got a fuse installed in my trunk-mounted battery. I have a 200A fuse in it at the moment. That is probably a bit large...

Thanks.
You'll need to study up in the service manuals for each starter. 200 amps is a ok draw. Some are less and older starters may take more. (may be up to 500 amps) You will need a multimeter that measures amps with an inductive pickup clamp. Or, a Sun Vat 40 tester. It has an inductive pick up.
 
Got it.

I chose a 200A fuse based on various opines I read on the webz. It did work for a few starts yesterday. Wanting to have a spare fuse on hand I was considering a lower capacity.

I understand what tool is necessary to measure that kind of current, just don't have one.

Maybe I'll just stick with the 200A setup I have...and make believe I'm protected from fire causing shortagement.
 
Some guys have mentioned using a no4 short main ground at the battery made of aluminum, but I have no idea where you'd get those, unless you buy a chunk of Al wire and make one up
 
Harbor Freight sells 2 AC/DC digital multi meters for $85. One is up to 600A AC/DC and the other is up to 1000A AC/DC. I have one but only have used it on AC.
 
Harbor Freight sells 2 AC/DC digital multi meters for $85. One is up to 600A AC/DC and the other is up to 1000A AC/DC. I have one but only have used it on AC.
Starter draw is not normally checked with a shunt/ meter. It is normally checked with a carbon pile battery tester. What you do is, hook up the tester with the carbon pile "out." Crank the engine for, say, 15 seconds, and before releasing the key, read the voltage accurately
Then crank in the carbon pile until the battery voltage is loaded down to the same voltage as you read when cranking, and when that point is reached then read the ammeter on the tester.

There may be some parts stores like O'really's that loan them out in the parking lot.
 
The positive battery cable should go directly to the starter with another cable going up to a 12v disconnect switch and on to a 12v distribution lug or maxi fuse panel. The ground should go directly to the engine block and then the frame and other major components.

 
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