Need help ?
With key off , both sides of the ballast resistor has no voltage .
With key on , I have 10.5 v on the engine side and barely moving the needle on my volt meter on the outside .
Remove the yellow wire from starter relay and key on , I get 10.5 v on the engine side and barely moving on the outside
Ok .
Nice improvising, now go on Amazon and buy a real volt meter :poke:
Battery has 12v, key in run you have 10.5v on the ignition side.
That's a 1.5 volt voltage drop. That is a lot of resistance in the system.
That you have less than 10.5 on the ignition side would suggest the ballast is functioning correctly BUT... that might mean you only have 5v to the coil when it needs 8 to 10 to run correctly. Without a proper volt meter you just don't know.
Getting the same voltage in start as in run suggests that the ignition switch is not working correctly.
The ignition switch should supply full battery voltage to the distributer (outside) of the ballast when the key is in the start position. You are getting the same in both the run and the start
To test this theory, charge the battery. Then attach a jumper wire from battery positive to the coil positive and attempt to start the car from the ignition switch. The jumper bypasses the ignition switch to power the coil, but still allows you to use the key to turn the engine over. To turn the engine off turn the key off AND remove the jumper from the battery and coil.
Dont run it this way for more than a few minutes as full volting the coil will kill it. Also don't leave the jumper attached while you do other things.