I might cry
No part number or mention of spacers for the crank, why?
Well, mainly your deck height... Assuming that is what it is, and the zero deco kon the pistons dont add up for a 3.58 stroke crank. They do for a 3.31 stroke crank. Math goes like this: for a typical zero deck LA - 1/2 stroke (3.58/2)=1.79 plus rod length=6.123 plus piston compression height 1.667(Diamonds 360 flat top for stock stroke) yeilds 9.580". Which also happens to be what most end up at. Working backwards on the 9.45 deck... 9.450-1.667=7.783 7.783-6.123=1.660(which is 1/2 stroke, the only length left) 1.660x2= 3.332. Factory strokes are typiclly +/- .005" if you take the time to check that stuff. You can run a 340/318 crank in a 360 block, but you will need to run main bearing spacers, and the 318/340 bearing part numbers. That would explain the engine feeling soft low down too. Do you have a spec or part number for the pushrods? If they are shorter by around .130" then the deck height stamped is right, and the pistons should be popping out of the bores by a lot. No way you can have an LA with those pistons and stock length connecting rods (you'd know if you paid for custom length rods..) with a 3.58 stroke and 9.45 deck and flush pistons. It simply can't happen unless they mill pistons a ton. Also, the eating of the cam can cause all kinds of issues from debris going everywhere. So a lack of power, vaccum, or smoking after a cam loss, if the engine was not totally taken down to bare block and cleaned before being run again, should be expected. If it were me, I would pull the pan, at least pull the pistons and rods, and something easy like the Number 2 or 4 main cap and take stock of waht you have. Then you can see if the bores are trashed from debris (kills ring seal and pistons), you can see the part numbers on the bearing shells, and you can see the crank. Stock cranks have casting nmbers you can see when it's installed if you look hard enough.