budget drag strip car build Q's

I didd a little snooping. If the pistons are at 0, and the MP thinner gasket is used, and the chambers are 72cc, you still only have about 9-5:1. Not bad, not great either. More importantly, the 4 valve reliefs hurt in two ways. They aren't that deep, and there's two extra for every hole. So depending ont he cam, it may either bee more race oriented, or more street oriented. A note on "the package"... If you run a spool, the rules say (and common sense and safety) you have to run aftermarket axles. Necause if a stock one shears, the car turns 90°, regardless of speed or location of the track. You can hurt the car, yourself, and most importantly the other racers by running stock axles. A lot of guys do it, and dont have a problem. I would submit that a lot of guys also drink enough to pass out, but only a few choke and die on thier own puke. Which would you rather be? I would use safe trap rpm and that valve relief as the guides here. I would expect it to turn 6-6500 easy if it's balanced. I would build it with that 6000 as the goal. A solid flat tappet, in the 230-240°@.050, should still clear the pistons and make power up there. For gearing, a set of 4.10s and a 28" tire will stick you in the right ball park. I dont like really loose convertors. So my choice would be a 9" 3500 stall. One that locks up tight in high gear. My first choice would be the Comp 282S Magnum solid flat tappet. Second would be the larger brother XS282S. I think hte larger one would like more gear, and will feel soft under 3500 and probaably peak above 6K tho. It would leave more room to grow. You will need the heads' guides cut, spring seats cut, and the right double springs for this. So be aware of break in procedures and leaving out the inners for break in. I would not sweat using teh Performer. It's not much more than stack, certainly not an RPM, but it will carry the power up to 6, and you have it.