header install
You dont have to dis-assemble the front suspension
You can remove and replace the starter with out removing the header
You dont smash the header tubes on every bump.
The flanges are 3/8" thick so they dont leak and blow gaskets every other week.
The collectors actually line up with the cut outs in the cross member
You can get to the bolts
You dont melt the 5 and 7 spark plug wires on the #5 tube
Plenty of reason why TTIs are worth the money. People will spend thousands on building a car then stick the cheapest headers and converter they can on it. I dont understand it.
Undoing two nuts and separating a center link is about a 5 minute operation, not something that would come into consideration for which headers to chose.
I am running Hedmans and have removed and replaced a full size starter with a mini stater without touching the headers. Disconnect the center link from drivers side tie rod and turn the wheel full left and a full size slides right out. You just need to turn the wheel without disconnecting the center link to R&R the mini starter.
I am running the suspension at the FSM specified ride height and the only time they have touched anything is if I go into the garage too fast (I have an abrupt 4" step from the driveway to the garage floor). I drive my car every where to the tune of 7-8k miles a year and have 20k on the Hedmans in the car and I have never bottomed on a speed bump or anything else in the road.
The thicker flanges are nice but since I haven't had any leaks in 20k miles it certainly isn't an issue.
You got me on the collector thing but it's a non issue to bend pipe from the collector through the cross member cut outs.
Hedman supplied header bolts with a 3/8" hex with the headers and all of them are easily reached with either an open end wrench or 1/4" drive socket.
I just routed the wires under the #3 tube that runs above cylinder 5 & 7 plugs and haven't damaged a wire in 20k miles.
The Hedmans fit without requiring any denting or massaging to clear everything, something that enough people mention having to do with TTI's to make me feel they are not better from a fitment standpoint.
TTI's are certainly nice headers but I can't see how they can justify $600-$700 for them when everyone else gets $150 - $300. I don't know why with the CAD tools available all the companies selling headers have not taken the opportunity to redesign their product so none of the tubes run under the center link. Same for the flanges a simple change in material thickness.
IMHO, the first company that invests in the time to reroute the tubes over the steering link and keeps the $150- $300 price and TTI won't sell another set of headers.