Help!!! Motor dies when coming to a stop?

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joelyrolly

joelyrolly
Joined
Feb 3, 2008
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california, fremont
ok i have a 1964 plymouth valiant with a 273 and push button transmission, ok so every time i am coming to a stop the idle goes real low and will die, it has electronic ignition and it only will do it in drive, it will idle fine in nutral but in drive it just goes very low and dies but when your driving it acts fine.


the timing is where it is at stock
and the motor is all stock

some one help me i cant figure it out?
 
check the floats on the carb.. if they are 2 low it will stall under braking
 
changed the fuel filter lately?

if your idle is set too low, that can cause stalling,
I had to raise my idle on my car, for the same reason.....

what type electronic ignition, some need more voltage,
than using the stock ballast resistor will give....

Lee
 
Vacuum!! or fuel level !!
Will it start and stay running when you put it in gear and holding the brake?
if it will start and stay running setting still in gear with the brake on,
park on a down hill slope and try it again. If it won't start it will be like DJVCDA said. Start the engine and leave it in park, Spray W-D 40 all around the base plate of the carb and see if it revs up. if so, seal and tighten carb
down. Try hitting your brake's when it in park and see if there is a big voltage draw it will suck up all your volt if there is a miner short, or a bad bulb. Ok I am dun.
 
How does it idle in reverse? Almost sounds like a toque converter.
 
ok so i found out that it will only do it when it gets warm when it has been running for about 15 mins also the car is running rich i can tell by the smell would that have any thing to do with it?

and their is no vacuum leaks
 
It takes and correct balance of fuel air and spark to make an engine run.

So what's missing or out of whack?

Is it getting too much or not enough of something?

So look for clues.....

You said "it's OK when cold", a cold engine requires a richer mixture than a warm engine. That's why we use a choke on cold engines, even computor controlled engines richen the mixture when cold.

You said "it smells rich when hot" are you seeing a pattern forming here?

You said "Stock Timing" "64" Do you rally think that a distributor and carburetor designed in 1964 can run on today's "Premium or less" gasoline? Would you not think that there maybe some modifications to made to the tuneup?

One more note, someone mentioned convertor locking up.....doubtful as that car doesn't have a lock up convertor, doesn't mean it still not in the trans as I'm not a trans expert by any means.

Tuning begins with Ignition first then carburetion but you must start with components that you know are capable of the task at hand.

You may want to go to:
www.4secondsflat.com

Click on the book cover and read the highlights on the 47 page tuning guide we offer, it might be the best $10 you've ever spent on your car.
 
I had the same problem with my 318 just brought up the idle and it is fine now just make sure you do it in drive and that the air cleaner is on. I don't know what your set up is supposed to idle at but i set mine at about 750rpms
 
I had a coil start to die on a 360, it would be fine at start up and while driving then about 15-20 mins later or after driving a while on the freeway it would die at low idle. I would have to power brake the hell out of it so it wouldn't die at stoplites. If I went into a store I would have to wait 40 mins for it to cool down so the car would start.
 
I had a coil start to die on a 360, it would be fine at start up and while driving then about 15-20 mins later or after driving a while on the freeway it would die at low idle. I would have to power brake the hell out of it so it wouldn't die at stoplites. If I went into a store I would have to wait 40 mins for it to cool down so the car would start.

I think you hit the nail on the head 360scamp!

Low spark will make it smell that way.
Same here!! had a coil that would do fine till you used it and wormed it up on a truck 360 ci.


Change the coil :-D
 
Hey everyone.I'm new here but I want to share also what happened to my car I have a 73 dart swinger 318 and had the same problem.Drove around for about 20-30 minutes,come to a stop light and engine would just die.the temp indicator would say almost 200!So there i'd be with the hood open and with a wet rag on the coil.Bought a new coil and GROUNDED well the ballast resistor to the firewall ever since it's been running great.
 
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