Shes alive an shes stayin alive!!

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clean that tank out already, you dont want to buy a new pump and screw it up because of sediment in the tank!
 
im thinking of going over to a fuel cell like my dad its what i want and its somthing im gona need in the future!
 
wouldnt it make sense to get it running first before you worry about a fuel cell.Just me but you will spend a few hundred bucks on a fuel cell and plumbing and you still may have intenal problems with your engine. Do like you said and hot jump it from a 5 gallon bucket or something and fire it up and make sure its not the motor. then worry about the neat looking ****. Fuel cell and a rolll cage wont do anygood if the engine only runs on 3 cyl.
 
we did bypass the tank and it did no good nice new fuel helped nothing then my fuel pump went out cuz of all the **** in the tank!so im getting a new one soon i was going to get the 16gl and 3/8 line and all the other fittings its gonna need!im getting all new MP dist and Mopar/MSD 6AL box soon so the elec will hopefully solve the probs there nothing else that could be the prob i got my new rockers,push rods, and MSD wires in the mail yesterday im gonna put all that stuff in and start thinking about what else im gonna need!
 
well if you Bypassed the fuel tank and it was getting good fuel before the pump went out then sounds like you will have a car with a fuel cell that still wont run :shock: swap out the pump, bypass the tank check your basics , fuel , fire , timing if you have those right it will run. once its running then think about a fuel cell or at least drop the tank and have it perged and sealed. First i would get it running cause you never know you might have to come out of pocket for something else to make it run and you blew your cash on a fuel cell you will be pissed. :wink:
 
i just found out that my piston beat the crap out of my valves as well the cam was off 180 and all the intake vavles met the pistons,HAHAH the look good still im going to test them and see if there good still i think that my push rods took most of the force i hope!we'll see the motor is down to the short block again fo the 3rd time now i picked up a new timing cover at the Fremont Mopar ralley car show for ten bucks and some other small things to shut me up for a few weeks!
 
Enlighten me. How do you install a cam 180º out. The crank gear must have the dot on top. The cam gear can have the dot on top or at bottom, the only difference this will make is firing on #1 or #6.

Please tell us how this happened. :?:
 
Ok im not sure what to call it but here it goes!We put the cam in,followed by the gear drive,the gear drive was set up in a previous 318 motor witha diff ca,we put it the way it came out of the old motor,we put it in the car the wrong way the cam dot was on top,not right,we changed it to dot to dot!put the car back togeter and try to start her up fro weeks now,come to find that somthing is wrong,i had two sets of push rods bend on me!the second time it was time to check the heads,pulled them off to find that the intake valves hit the piston,from what iv learnd that means the cam was set wrond it we left the cam dot on the top and the crank dot on the top the cam would hav been set up the right way even thoght thats not how its needed to be,so im pulling the gear drive gear on the cam and turning it to how it needs to be and deg. the cam up right,thats my big fix that ill need to work on this week and need to se if the valves are good cuz the they still look fine i hope that the push rods took alot of the pain for them cuz ther f-ed up!
 
Any of the valves that hit pistons are junk. Do not try and re-use these. You also need to have a valve job done now.

Did you install a gear drive, or are you talking about a timing chain and gears. If it was the timing chain it does not matter if it is dot to dot or both dots on top. the only difference will be dist position.

I think you must of done something else, or...... dropped something down the intake.
 
even if it is a gear drive, setting the dot on the cam to the top or bottom would not make a difference (except for dist position) because the cam gear turns once for every two turns of the crank. Are all of the intake valves hitting or just one?
 
throw that damn gear drive in the junk pile and get you a Dbl Roller and be done with it. Line the damn dots up cam dot on bottom crank dot on top and be done with it. forget that fuel cell cause a good valve job and stainelss valves is gonna cost. while you got the top off check the cyl and make sure the bottom half is good if you freshen the top half and the bottom is weak your days will be numbered before you turn a main or rod bearing. Do the required stuff first and then worry about the Gee Wizz **** later. If you want to run with that RT of your old man better get it straight. Fuel cells and big wheels look cool but aint worth **** sitting in the drive way with a ragged out engine!!!
 
All of the intake valves hit the piston on both sides of the engine,yes im using the gear drive,it was in my dads old 318 he had when he was a kid and were putting it in my car the gear drive is no prob at all to work with its siple i dont want to run a Db roller like all of my buddies and there chebby's i want the sound that they give and the accuracy on the side to help me out and it was free u cant beat that!as for the fuel cell that was going to happin cuz my tank killed two of my pumps now and im tired of buying new ones! :evil: so i might use my dads cell and get all the little things that i need to get her goin again then buy my own cell!as for running with the R/T thats never gonna happin with my 318 my car just sounds meaner and looks meaner!i can walk my car sideways just as long as hers in the races that we use to get in,my mom is the coolest! :twisted:
 
It sounds like a bad ingition resistor to me. If it runs on the start side of the switch, and then cuts off on the run side, then your resistor is gone.

Earl
 
i dont know what is yet cuz now the motor is nothing but a short block but when the time comes it should be fine! :eek:ops:
 
Bent valves huh? Hmmmm, I could say I told you so too, but that wouldn't make any difference now would it?

When you get it back together again... BEFORE YOU EVER HOOK UP THE BATTERY... turn the motor over a few times by hand. Preferably with the valve covers off so you can actually see the valves opening and closing. It would help to remove all the spark plugs. Make sure there is nothing binding.

Also, all the cranking you've done the last few weeks has most asuredly wiped away any moly lube you had on that brand new cam and lifters. If I were you, I would pull that cam and inspect it for scratches or scoring. Same goes for the lifters, but make sure you put them all back (with new moly lube) in the same bore they came out of.

If you didn't already know, the first 20-30 minutes the engine runs after a cam/lifter change is a CRITICAL time. This is when the lifters and cam break themselves in and start to establish a wear pattern. In an ideal situation following a cam change, the engine should fire up IMMEDIATELY and you should QUICKLY get the rpms up in the 2200-2800 range. You run it in this range varrying the rpm continuously for AT LEAST 20 minutes. Failure to do this WILL result in a cam with wiped lobes.

PLEASE learn from your previous mistakes. You obviously did not assemble things correctly last time, and you did not go back to verify your work. NEVER NEVER NEVER try to start an engine you've worked on unless you go over EVERY little detail to make sure you did the work right.

Sorry if it sounds like I'm raggin' on you man, that's not my intention. You are obviously into cars and like to do your own work. I commend you for that. But you have to realize there is more to it than just turning a wrench. I'm no mechanic by any means, and I have learned a few expensive leasons of my own. So I'm just trying to pass on my experiences and maybe it will help you out. Okay, lecture over.
 
sounds like good advice, I would go as fas a turning it over with the intake manifold off so you can watch the lifters, push rods and Rockers all in action prior to firing it up. Slow down take your time and for god sake invest some research time, look up what you intend to do in a book and go over it a couple of time before you tear into it.
 
chad72duster said:
sounds like good advice, I would go as fas a turning it over with the intake manifold off so you can watch the lifters, push rods and Rockers all in action prior to firing it up. Slow down take your time and for god sake invest some research time, look up what you intend to do in a book and go over it a couple of time before you tear into it.
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I was lookin into doing that to help me out with the set up right now im still setting the gear drive up with the cam my dad friend is coming over to deg. my cam and show me how to do!cuz i need to know how to do this crap when i move out and get many more mopars in my life!
 
When you are having these kind of problems you are better off having someone who knows stop by before things get too far. :)
 
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