360 Back from the Machine Shop

Basically what I had done was;

1. the crank was turned 0.010" under to remove the scoring on the journals.
2. The rotating assembly was balanced. I am building the engine with Keith Black flat tops and Eagle SIR rods both of which are lighter than stock parts. If you are considering using parts like these and not balancing the rotating assembly don't. They removed 200 grams from one end of the crank and 240 from the other end. That's just shy of a pound of metal. Can't even imagine how much that thing would have vibrated that far out.
3. Had the block cleaned, soda blasted, magnafluxed and sonic checked. The mains were checked and didn't require a line hone with the ARP main bolts.
4. The block was zero decked to the KB pistons. From the factory one side was so far out of square it took all the metal in the decking operating to get it square.
5. The block was bored 0.030 over and honed with a boring plate.
6. Other incidentals were installing new cam bearings, I would normally do this but they didn't charge me so it saved me borrowing the cam bearing tool from my kids shop. They washed the block again after machining so I had them paint it before dipping it in rust preservative. They used etching primer and Hemi Orange.

I have the short block back together and before I button it up I will take some more pictures.