headliner question
Craig,
I guess the question comes down to whether or not you plan to remove the headliner to paint or apply fabric to. Honestly, I'm 51 years old, and I don't necessarily relish the thought of working up over my head inside a cramped car, especially if it has an interior I need to preserve. Therefore, I can't really speak to the question of how to install headliner fabric in-place.
However, I have safely salvaged and reused two very nice fiberboard headliners. The trick is to take your time and be VERY CAREFUL about how you handle them. They are really brittle along the edges, and the surface scratches easily.
First, you have to remove the metal trim pieces covering the roof rails, A-pillar trim, coat hooks, shoulder harness roof anchors, rear view mirror, sun visors, sail panels (that's a story in itself), dome light, and shoulder harness stow-away clips (depending on year model). Once the roof rail trim is off you will also see a few small spring clips holding the edges of the headliner along the roof pinch weld. Finally, fold back the rubber window seals (front and rear) right dead center and you will see either a button clip or a screw head. Either way, these must be removed to finally free the headliner from the roof. The button clip just pulls straight out with some pliers and the screw is self-explanatory.
Did I mention the nasty factory insulation used above the headliner. Too late, you've already gotten a dose of it by now. It's not fiberglass, but it still makes you itchy if you get it all over you, so be careful. I suggest you have a shop vac handy at the point where you pull the spring clips off the edges of the roof rails and start sucking the stuff out immediately.
Now comes the fun...
You need an extra pair(s) of hands helping, so enlist someone (or two) you dearly trust to handle your headliner with kid gloves. Go around the edges to make sure everything is completely loose. Use a narrow putty knife if necessary to carefully break loose any bonds between the headliner and the rubber window seals. Once you are satisfied that it is free on all edges, have your helper(s) pull down on the rear rubber window seal to take tension off the headliner surface. Grip the headliner on one edge with one hand and the dome light hole with the other hand (unless you have a wingspan wide enough to grip both sides). Use a slight twisting, rocking motion and try to wiggle the headliner toward the rear window. Another helper can relieve some pressure on the front edge by pulling down on the windshield seal at the same time.
It won't take much movement to the rear and the front edge should fall down (make sure you have it supported). Now, you're home free. Just reverse the action and pull the headliner forward to free it from the rear window seal. Wasn't that easy??
The only caveat to this whole process is that I have only had the pleasure to do it a couple of times when the quarter windows were removed. It only takes one to give the clearance you need to rotate the headliner and take it out the door opening. I've never tried it otherwise, but you might be able to gain enough room to tip it down, if the seats are removed and a door window is rolled down. Someone else can chime in here if they have done so successfully.
Obviously, installation would be the opposite. If you cover the headliner with fabric, make sure any foam backing is trimmed off the edges to give clearance for window seals, spring clips, etc. You might be better off not using a foam-backed liner fabric, but rather just a simple skin glued on, just don't let the glue soak through the fabric.
As far as insulation goes, I went to my local LOWE'S (Home Depot) and bought some of the foil-lined bubble wrap type insulation. Cut pieces to fit in the locations the nasty stuff was originally placed. You can glue it on or simply hold it in place temporarily with duct tape. By the way, the screws or button clips you found in the earlier step holding the two ends up won't be necessary anymore. Once you tuck the edge of the headliner under the window seal, it won't be going anywhere. I suspect they were temporary during assembly just to hold up the headliner while waiting for window seals.
I don't think I have overlooked anything. If so, please make note of it for the next unlucky soul who wants to tackle this chore.
Good luck,
Jerry
Craig,
I guess the question comes down to whether or not you plan to remove the headliner to paint or apply fabric to. Honestly, I'm 51 years old, and I don't necessarily relish the thought of working up over my head inside a cramped car, especially if it has an interior I need to preserve. Therefore, I can't really speak to the question of how to install headliner fabric in-place.
However, I have safely salvaged and reused two very nice fiberboard headliners. The trick is to take your time and be VERY CAREFUL about how you handle them. They are really brittle along the edges, and the surface scratches easily.
First, you have to remove the metal trim pieces covering the roof rails, A-pillar trim, coat hooks, shoulder harness roof anchors, rear view mirror, sun visors, sail panels (that's a story in itself), dome light, and shoulder harness stow-away clips (depending on year model). Once the roof rail trim is off you will also see a few small spring clips holding the edges of the headliner along the roof pinch weld. Finally, fold back the rubber window seals (front and rear) right dead center and you will see either a button clip or a screw head. Either way, these must be removed to finally free the headliner from the roof. The button clip just pulls straight out with some pliers and the screw is self-explanatory.
Did I mention the nasty factory insulation used above the headliner. Too late, you've already gotten a dose of it by now. It's not fiberglass, but it still makes you itchy if you get it all over you, so be careful. I suggest you have a shop vac handy at the point where you pull the spring clips off the edges of the roof rails and start sucking the stuff out immediately.
Now comes the fun...
You need an extra pair(s) of hands helping, so enlist someone (or two) you dearly trust to handle your headliner with kid gloves. Go around the edges to make sure everything is completely loose. Use a narrow putty knife if necessary to carefully break loose any bonds between the headliner and the rubber window seals. Once you are satisfied that it is free on all edges, have your helper(s) pull down on the rear rubber window seal to take tension off the headliner surface. Grip the headliner on one edge with one hand and the dome light hole with the other hand (unless you have a wingspan wide enough to grip both sides). Use a slight twisting, rocking motion and try to wiggle the headliner toward the rear window. Another helper can relieve some pressure on the front edge by pulling down on the windshield seal at the same time.
It won't take much movement to the rear and the front edge should fall down (make sure you have it supported). Now, you're home free. Just reverse the action and pull the headliner forward to free it from the rear window seal. Wasn't that easy??
The only caveat to this whole process is that I have only had the pleasure to do it a couple of times when the quarter windows were removed. It only takes one to give the clearance you need to rotate the headliner and take it out the door opening. I've never tried it otherwise, but you might be able to gain enough room to tip it down, if the seats are removed and a door window is rolled down. Someone else can chime in here if they have done so successfully.
Obviously, installation would be the opposite. If you cover the headliner with fabric, make sure any foam backing is trimmed off the edges to give clearance for window seals, spring clips, etc. You might be better off not using a foam-backed liner fabric, but rather just a simple skin glued on, just don't let the glue soak through the fabric.
As far as insulation goes, I went to my local LOWE'S (Home Depot) and bought some of the foil-lined bubble wrap type insulation. Cut pieces to fit in the locations the nasty stuff was originally placed. You can glue it on or simply hold it in place temporarily with duct tape. By the way, the screws or button clips you found in the earlier step holding the two ends up won't be necessary anymore. Once you tuck the edge of the headliner under the window seal, it won't be going anywhere. I suspect they were temporary during assembly just to hold up the headliner while waiting for window seals.
I don't think I have overlooked anything. If so, please make note of it for the next unlucky soul who wants to tackle this chore.
Good luck,
Jerry