69 340 problems
I'm starting to wonder if you accidently stopped at the diesel pump or jsut bought bad gas. I know you tryed to run off a gas jug before but maybe not long enough to get the bad out of the carb and now have bad fuel in the new carb.
You know you have spark if adjusting the timing effects how it turns over.
Fuel and spark are all thats needed. The quality of one or the other is your problem.
After 5 pages here and 200 plus spent there we should have found the fault by now.
I can't help but recall my uncle and his K car type Lebarron convertile (long time ago). He had it towed to the dealership 4 times and spent 3 times as much as you have. Electric fuel pump, fuel pump regulater, ECU. Problem was water in the gas the whole time.
I checked the fuel again. It is definately NOT diesel fuel. I also pulled a couple of spark plugs and there is fuel on them so I know we're getting fuel into the cylinders.
When I bought gas for the Dart, I put gas from the same pump at the same time in my 1990 Power Ram truck. The truck runs like a clock so the car should also.
Yesterday my wife cranked the engine over while I checked #2 plug wire for spark. It DID have a spark, but it seemed weak TO ME, and it also didn't seem to "fire" with every rotation of the engine. Maybe it does, but it didn't seem that way to me. I do realize there are 4 strokes to the cylinder cycle.
When you spoke about the quality of one or the other, I agree with you; the quality of the spark doesn't seem good..........TO ME. A second set of eyes would be helpful right about now.
George,
I have read this post for the first time and eventhough it is not my car and problem, I almost feel like it is.....you must be fustrated beyond belief!!!!! Everyone has already given you all the suggestion that I would give for you to try......
I guess I am just posting to say hang in there!!! It ran once, it will run again.... Don't let it win!!!! We are all rooting for you!
Thanks for the vote of confidence Haney! Appreciated.
I pulled off the valve covers and cranked the engine by jumping the starter relay. The valves are opening and closing like they should. Also the rocker arm shaft bolts are tight. I set the engine to TDC #1 and reinstalled the covers. Both valves on cylinder #1 are closed.
Then I removed the distributor from the engine. I grounded the body of the dist to my NEG battery post, and using my voltmeter, I connected the POS wire from the meter to the POS side of the battery, and the NEG wire from the meter to the single wire from the points. I then rotated the dist over by hand. As the points open & close the meter reads from 0 volts to battery voltage every time the points open & close. It APPEARS to me that the distributor is working correctly, and the points are set correctly. I don't have another condenser to try so I'll have to run out and buy one for a test.
In all the years I have been fooling with points distributors I have never seen a condenser fail, but I'll try replacing it anyway.
Any other places I can check?
Like I said in an earlier post, my wipers do not operate. I suspect a bad motor or possibly the wiring inside the motor.
On the bulkhead connector plug for the wiper motor are the wires that run to the transmission. Its a TQ727. I assume these wires are for the reverse lights and the neutral safety switch. The reverse lights work, and, because the starter motor turns the engine over, I assume the neutral safety switch is working correctly. Would you all agree??
Thanks again for the help. I aint givin up until it runs. I am embarrassed in front of my whole family that I can restore this car from a pile of parts and have it literally look like a new car, but I can't figure out why it won't start.
Thanks for helping.
George