oil system, what to buy??

I need to get some parts ordered this weekend. Looking for opinions/recommendations on what to get. This is for the 416 stroker motor going into my Dart. This is a mostly street car with an occasional trip to the track. Car will need to handle the twisty tracks as well as the straight ones.

Oil pump - do I really need a HV pump? I do not plan to rev this thing much past 6000rpm. I did not do any oiling mods to the block other than clean up some of the oil drainback passages and chamfer the oil holes in the crank. Also, what brand pump is the best or is there any difference.

Oil pan - do I really need a larger than stock pan? I am leaning toward the Milodon 8 quart, but is that overkill for a street car?

Oil pickup tube - I supposed I just need to get one that matches the pan, correct?

Windage tray - I've looked at Milodon and the Mopar Performance. Are there any others? Which is better?

Oil pump drive shaft - Mopar or Melling? Any others?

Lifter valley baffle - is it worth having for $25? I'll probably end up with an AirGap intake eventually.

Filter relocator kit - yes, I'm tired of having to thread the filter thru the headers! I also want the option to add a cooler. What is the best relocator kit? I do not want any leaks! Major pet peave of mine.

What am I missing?

Oil Pump- Highly recommend a Melling HV pump. Think Melling makes the best pumps period. On a motor of this caliber why risk it with a stock volume pump. Oil pumps are cheap.
Oil Pan- A larger than stock pan is also recommended. The Milodon pan, if its the one I'm thinking of, Is wider at the bottom so has a larger capacity yet you still have good ground clearance. I've used this pan on 10 sec. engines.
Oil pump pick-up- use the one that comes with the pan.
Windage tray- Either one as long as you have one. I always used Mopar trays.
Distributor Drive- Use one with a hardened tip
Lifter valley baffle- Don't think they are worth the money or the hassle, but a lot of people use them.
filter relocation kit- can't comment on this one I've always run the 90 deg. adapter. I don't like having the extra plumbing in the engine compartment and having to snake the hoses around the headers and so-on. Also another place for a leak to develop.

I think if I'm going to use an HV pump, then a larger volume pan is a definate requirement. This is the Milodon I am looking at.



Only problem I have heard with it is I might need to trim the K-member for clearance. That's not a big issue. Anyone else have comments?

I am currently using a right angle filter adapter that came on the 318 in the car now. It has leaked ever since I got the thing. I had to remove it when I put headers on the car. Putting it back on the engine with the headers in place was a nightmare I do not wish to repeat. And of course it leaks now more than it did before, and right onto my headers. :angry5:

That is the same pan I have used on a few engines. I don't remember having to cut the k-member. You might have to trim the lip on back a little but don't even think this is necessary. This is a good street/strip pan.
Did you replace all the gaskets on the adapter when you reinstalled it? Just wondering why it leaked so bad.

moparracer said:

Did you replace all the gaskets on the adapter when you reinstalled it? Just wondering why it leaked so bad.

Click to expand...

Yes, I used a new gasket set from FelPro and even smeared some copper RTV on it. Part of the problem is accessing the screw to tighten it. The way my headers sit, they block all access from above. To get to it from below, you have to reach around and over the torsion spring and header tubes. Plus the only wrench I had big enough to fit is an adjustable Crescent.

And replacing the oil filter is another trick. I have to set it in from the top and rest it on the header tubes, then go under the car to lift it up and thread it on. And I can't pre-fill the filter with oil because it would all spill out by the time I get it where it needs to be. It makes a 10 minute oil change last another 30 minutes.

When I built my 360 I asked the place that machinmed my motor this same question about pumps. I am kinda fuzzy on the details but I remeber them telling me there are like 3 manufacturers of Pumps for small block Mopars, Melling and I don't remember the other 2 brands. Supposedly one of those 3 makes all the pumps for all 3 so it doesn't matter which brand you buy. As far HV goes for my build up they really didn't think I would gain much by it.


For oild pump drive get the Mopar one. I had a Melling and it was to big and wouldn't fit in the bushing. Unfortuneately I didn't find this out till the motor was almost done. Instead of tearing the engine all apart to have the bushing clearanced and cleaned again, I took a chance and took the Melling one back to Napa and ordered one from MP. The Mopar one fit like a glove and I didn't have to tear my engine back apart.

i have an oil filter relocation kit on my 71 dart. works GREAT but....... it does ahve a problem with oil seaping out of the fittings. not enough to make a big mess but enough to look shabby.

Here are a few more questions for you guys. 8)

Crank Scraper - Does anyone sell these for a SB Mopar with a 4" stroke crank?

Oil Pressure By-Pass Spring - If I use the HV pump, should I also put in the high pressure spring?

Pump Priming - I saw in another thread I can use a 5/16" hex rod and a drill motor to prime the oil pump and oil galleries. Is this all that's needed? Do I need to pre-fill the oil pump before I even install it in the engine?

Oil Pressure Gauge - I don't have one yet. I know a mechanical gauge is more accurate, but I don't know if I want pressurized oil inside the car. So I'll probably go with electric. Where is the best place to install the sender? Can you still retain the stock sender for the idiot light?

Crank Scraper- Not sure on a 4 inch crank. May have to modify one for a stock crank. Either way not really worth the hassle IMO.
Spring- I would use the one supplied with the pump.
Priming the pump- It wouldn't hurt to pour some oil in the pump before installing it, that way it is not dry. Some people even use vaseline in the oil pump, not that there is anything wrong with that. When you prime the pump the oil pressure will come up and it will slow the drill down quite a bit. It helps to have a real good drill, I just burned up a cheap electric one on my race car this spring. Make sure you turn the motor by hand until you get oil to the rocker gear.
Oil Pressure Gauge-Doesn't really matter as long as you have a gauge. Just run a T out of the oil pressure port and you can run the stock sending unit and an aftermarket gauge.

I have that pan also. Actually I have 2. I will sell you one for $50. It needs to have a small hole brazed up. other than that its fine. I put JB weld on it years ago. it does not leak. I use the Melling HV. Had to just trim the K to fit the pan. Just spin a 1/2 in drill on the pump primer. Turn the engine over by hand til you get oil on both sides.
No need for the scraper. The stock windage tray is fine.
what did i miss?

timhaner@hotmail.com

oh yeah, use a mech oil gauge with AN braided line...just fine

FBO Engine!
Cool does it have any oil pressure? How does it run?

LOL