Body work for dummies...

Heres how I would tackle it. Start with the trunk and extension patches. There a good place to practice metal work . If your weld are perfect who cares, Grind them down, try again, paint it and cover it with a mat.

Next move on the the quarter patches. I would start by stripping the entire 1/4 down before you cut your patches. You may end up with more rust then you think. I usually DA the panel with 80 to remove the paint. You could also use a paint stripper

Once you found what needs to be patched cut out the rust, trim your patch and grind the area to be welded. You may want to pick up a good angle grinder.

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Cut the rust out about an inch past were it stops (in to clean metal) Trim you patch to fit.

Once its welded in, Grind down the weld being carefull to not grin to much and warp the panel or grind through it.

Now you can do your filler work over the seem. We use Evercoat. I usually start by feathering in the filler with some 80 grit on the DA being careful not to take to much off. Then I switch to a long block with 80 and block it flat.

You can spray a bit of flat black paint (I use cheap sandable primer from walmart or autozone) for a guide coat to make sure the filler is level or you can buy some 3M dry guide coat which is a powered. You will most likely need to add a second coat of filler to get it flat and feathered out.

If you have any pin holes in the filler you can add a coat of polyester finishing and blending putty. Use a good 2 part product like Metal Glaze by Evercoat. http://www.eastwoodco.com/jump.jsp?itemID=11052&itemType=PRODUCT
You can black the putty down with 180 on your long board.

Once the filler work is done and straight you can lay down some primer. I would use a good Epoxy like PPG DP series. However you have a certain window of time to top coat is before you have to scuff it and reaply.

Your best bet will probably be to strip and prime it down panel at a time. When all your body work is done, Scuff it and re shoot the epoxy.

Once you have the new coat of epoxy on your going to want to get a sandable primer/surfacer on the car. Theres a few ways to go here. At the shop I work at we use Robelco Filler primer, Is a 2K primer, spray 4 caosts, let it dry for a few days, shoot some guide coat and start blocking with 180.

You can also use a product like slick sand http://www.eastwoodco.com/jump.jsp?itemID=17574&itemType=PRODUCT

or feather fill
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Ive never used any of these products but I hear they work great and would love to try them.

If your not in a big rush, I would spray your primer, feather fill or what ever you choose and let it sit for a few weeks. Let all the chemicals dry up and gas out.

Then block with 180 stopping when you cut through to the layer under neath which would be the epoxy.

Next apply another 4 coats of primer. If you still have a bunch of high and low spots you can block with 180 again, if not move to 220. Dont forget your guide coat.

If you have a panel that needs more work then others you can prime that panel and black it till your happy

Now it should be pretty straight, couple more coats of primer, guide coat and 400 grit wet, Use plenty of water and a few drops of liquid soap in the bucket.

After the 400, wet sand with 600 wet. You shouldnt need more primer between coats.

One thing to remember is that by the second round of blocking it should be pretty straight and you should be removing a good amount of the primer you put on. It may seem waist full but you just want to fill low spots not keep building up the thickness of the meterial. Any high spots you find after the first and second round should be tapped down with your hammer. The more primer you have on it, the more likely it will chip.

When your ready for paint your going to spray a sealer, Usually its a reduced epoxy. You want to do this with in hours of spraying color.

Next comes paint, 3 or 4 coats of color followed by 3 or 4 coats of clear.

As far as your black out, you may want to use a product like SEMs, Hot Rod black or a black base with a flat clear. What ever you do make sure its compatible with your base/clear or what ever paint your using.