WindShield Trim Dent Removal

I just read the other post about installing windshield trim and I now know where the minor dents came from on my trim. It looks like someone used a hammer or mallet to install the trim at some point. How can I get the dents out of the trim? They are smooth dents and not very deep. I have no clue how to attack this issue.

You'll need to take the trim back off the car and to the workbench. Wooden work surface and hardwood tools to carefully mesage the dents out. Stainless is tough stuff. Removing scars in the finish is much harder than removing bends.

The trim is off the car. So, I should use wood the support the trim and use a wooden mallet to gently work the dents out? I saw a trim anvil at a web site would it help? http://www.tptools.com/p/2809,170_Trim-Anvil-and-Chaser-Hammers.html. Or is it better to use wooden tools like the mallet labeled "A" at this web site, http://www.tptools.com/p/489,170_Deep-Reach-Wooden-Mallets.html? I figured the wooden mallet came sanded down to fit within the confines of the trim. I appreciate the help.

I have made a tool out of a wooden hammer handle. I cut about a six inch length and filed it to a point at one end that i use to tap the dent out with .When you work out the dents try not to stretch the metal too much. Lightly tap the dent until it feels smooth. If you have an scratches you can lightly sand them out with some fine sandpaper and polish with some mothers polish. I did all my dads stainless on his 38 pontiac and 51 chevy this way..
HKeller

I normally just shape my own tools as needed from hammer handles. Wood is recommended only because its soft/forgiving enough to "help" prevent scaring. I have went as far as clamping the trim between hand shaped anvils mounted on 2 pieces of wood replacing my vise jaws and pulling the trim back and forth through and incresing the pressure a little at a time. I've even poured epoxy on an unbent section of the trim to form anvils. Saran wrap as adhesion barrier, Play-Doh for damming and/or molding. Trial and error and effort.

Thanks for the replies. Definitely got my brain working in the correct direction. As I am gently tapping the dent what do I use for a foundation or backing to lay the trim on, another piece of wood or a beating bag or something else?
Thanks Randy

Place the trim on a peice of wood. Don't worry if you make a high spot. As stated above, if you make a high spot, block sand it up to 2000 grit. Then hit it with Tripoli stainless polish compound on a buff.

b569rr said:

Place the trim on a peice of wood. Don't worry if you make a high spot. As stated above, if you make a high spot, block sand it up to 2000 grit. Then hit it with Tripoli stainless polish compound on a buff.

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I have done plenty of polishing on aluim and stainless trim. In fact I consider my self a pro at it. A good friend of mine owns a chrome plating shop and has the right lessons on how to. And I am better than the guys that work there. But think that is due to me taking more care and time to do so.
I have at times saved trim that should be tossed out. But only due to the fact that no new{used} trim could be found.
I use an anvil not soft wood to back it up,since you can crack stainless trim.So beatting it back and forth to much will crack it. It is just like bending anything back and forth to many times and the metal is weak. So you realy want to do same as you do with body panels on a car.
I have quite a few hammers {like a tack hammer} as well as chisels that have been ground flat on the tip.
I also have some punches like a nail set but larger.
I Beat the dents out and get it straight.

After the start of beating the dents out has been done,take a black marker and get that area coated with as a guide coat.
Then block sand with 220 on up to 600 wet.
I use 1 gallon paint paddles to block
Then it is off to the buffer with black emery, gray emery and then the white rouge, they also make a blue one that is even finer grit.
Make sure you change buffs when you change compund.
Yes my hat still fits. sorry if i canme across as a know it all. Just best to start with a hard metal hitting block since the soft wood will let you indent it when beating the dents out.This is no diferant than hammer and dolly on sheet metal

I bought new trim when my painter did the same to my trim. Sucks!!!!!

Thanks for the replies. I will have to do some beatin and bangin. Then I'll have to get it buffed out. I got some old trim from the junk yard to test my technique before I turn the hammer to the Barracuda's trim.

Thanks, 340six, great info there.