Need 4-speed Help

grumpuscreature - Yes, it was larger diameter bearing/bushing. I wasn't sure which one I was going to use and since the pilot bushing was relatively cheap (>$10), I ordered both. When I examined, seemed like the roller style bearing/bushing was a much better option. So, I tested fit on the end of the of the trans output shaft and installed into the crank end. It was very much a press fit and there was room behind the bearing, but didn't think to measure how much. Will make sure I measure when I remove the trans again..

bvt69dart@comca - Thanks for feeling my pain and agreed since I've learned a lot from all of the FABO members.

green1 - W/R to your TO bearing comment, assuming you're addressing problem 1, squealing? If not, wouldn't think it would contribute to problem 2, shuddering since the TO bearing is new. Unless, I'm misinterpreting what you're saying...

doktor_x - Yes, it's a Hays street/strip clutch kit and don't recall, from memory, if there's an adjustment on the 3 pp arms. That's what a buddies co-worker suggested w/reference to his previous shuddering problem on his Ranchero. Seem to remember the arms evenly contacting the TO bearing, when I last had the trans out, but will look more critcally next time if the trans, pp, clutch disk, and flywheel are removed. The fork and TO bearing seem to be working correctly and have smooth play and about .5 - 1" of play in the adjusting rod and fork.

fstfish66 - Called Ohio Crank this a.m. and all they could only tell me was they make all cranks to OEM spec. When I ordered the rotating assembly, there was not choice between auto vs. manual. Based on my comments above, will conclude that OEM spec has provisions for manual trans since the pilot bearing fit w/room behind. But, will defintiely take measurements to ensure output shaft is not contating the back of crank..

I may have already accomplished the equivalent of what you're suggesting in testing the shifting mechanisms, minus starting car... If I understand that correctly, not sure I want to attempt that yet, but will keep in mind. I forget the configuration in regards to the flywheel and clutch disk. I seem to remember there was only one way the flywheel could go on, but only recall the label (Sticker) on the clutch plate saying "Engine Side," I think? Will examine when I pull it...

Okay guys... Thanks for all the suggestions. Seems like the inevitable next step is pull the trans, take a couple measurments, clean, and have the flywheel resurfaced. Also, will ask my machine shop guy to see if he can tell whether or not the flywheel was out of true....

Will keep everyone posted...