Need 4-speed Help

mullinax95 / pntastar69 - Actually, since this is the same problem I had in the beginning, may have come close since I was able to back down my driveway, but couldn't get back up the incline. Good thing I have a scatter shield in case the clutch blew up... May need to eventually take the trans in if I can't figure this out. Was toying with the idea of rebuilding myself, but decided to spent time and resources on clutch. Now, I'm not sure. Would still like to resolve this on my own because it's more economical, but more importantly, I like learning more when I can do it myself. But, not going to beat my head against the wall for too much longer... Have gotten the name of a good mopar tranny guy here in town, so we'll see. Also, expecting to hear back from the Hays diagnostic folks, but now with the same problem with the new pressure plate, not as hopeful.

danmc77 - Actually, have already ruled out the input shaft to crank issue. The crank in a new Ohio Crank steel stoker crank. In an earlier post, I mentioned that I even called OC to verify if my particular crank was drilled for a 4-speed. They told me they drill all of their cranks the same to OEM spec.
Additionally, the second time I had the trans out, there was a grease ring around the end of the input shaft, so you could see where it was contacting the roller bearing and there was an additional 1" protruding beyond the grease ring. There was an adiditonal 1.5" depth into the end hole of the crank. So, there's enough clearance to prevent binding.... Thx for the suggestion.

fstfish66 - Let's see if I can answer all of the conditions you list:
  • When car is running and in nuetral, there are no noises or issues. Same when car is up on 4 jack stands. Also, while in nuetral, both rear tires are not moving either when the clutch pedal is depressed or released
  • Clutch pedal has 2 different pressure resistance points. 1st - about 2 inches from the top, it's easy, because I can only feel the clutch pedal spring resistance. 2nd - clutch pedal is noticable harder; assuming it's from the pressure plate springs
  • With engine off, regardless of clutch pedal being depressed or not, trans shifts into 1-4 or reverse easily
  • WIth engine running, clutch pedal fully depressed, shifting into 1-4 is noticably more difficult and R grinds a bit before engaging, but wheels are not turning
  • With engine runnning, trans in 1st gear, letting out clutch, both rear wheels turn freely. Same condition, with e-brake on, engine starts to die, but can keep running by reving engine and both rear wheels don't turn (i.e. slipping), no squealing
  • Same scenario about, only in 4th gear, squealing noise coming from clutch area
  • With engine off and trans in nuetral, can manually turned driveshaft and both rear wheels turn freely in the same direction with no binding
  • Have not tried the above scenario in R. Also, have not tried turning rear wheels with trans in gear to see if engine rotates
  • Rear end 3rd member condition is unknown, but no noises or binding issues. Also, posi unit seems to be working, at least not under load since both wheels turn in the same direction when rotating drive shaft or one of the wheels
Will try the other tests when I get some free time, but hope I answered all your test questions correctly and they make sense...




man im puzzeled,,, you say in first gear the tires rotate,,but not enough engaugement to pul you up the drive way ??? car in the air,,,disconect the clutch linkage so the fork is free,, wiggle it,,, is there free play??? with clutch linkage disconected,,and fork having free play,, put it in 4th gear then start the car ,,,still get the squeeling ??

take the drive shaft out and repeat same thing,, see if it squeels,,,,im only searching fro ideas,, hard to figure out with out seeing/hearing it...