Need 4-speed Help
fourspeed - With the SFI scatter shield, TTI Header, and mini-starter, not much room and initially shortened the z-bar arm about .5" to clear the header tube. This last removal, added about .25" back, had to add another bend, to regain some of the through I lost from the original shortening. So, I think it's as maxed out for I can make it. The car was originally a /6, so the fender pivot, might be a little off, but I was able to fabricate the SS pivot to align both horizontally/vertically. So, should be ok there.
May tackle the trans rebuilt if I have too, but can think of anything that would cause it to slip??... Tore down the 3-speed trans that came with the car and kept the output shaft and shaft in case I need to rebuild...
fstfish66 - Have free play after clutch is released, so PP and TO bearing is fully disengaging from clutch plate/flywheel. Car moves forward in any gear and reverse, but will not not move under load. The first time, got stuck in the middle of the street and couldn't make it up the driveway incline... So, ever since then, all testing is done on jack stands w/e-brake...
If I take of driveshaft, how would I put any pressure/load on trans?
Talked to Dave Brewer today and he thinks, like others have suggested, it's scatter shield alignment. Said .0010" off can create a problem and need to use a service manual and offset dowels... Hmm... seems like an awfully tight tolerance, but assuming he knows what he's talking about. Also, said he didn't like the roller pilot crank bushing.
So, maybe need to use dial indicator and check SS alignment. Also, maybe I'll swap out the roller bearing with the bronze/brass one. I bought both initially.
Have you ever installed the press in bushing? Can I install easily? Any recommended methods?
Now that I think of it, the press in bearing sets further back in the crank compared to where I have the roller bushing inserted. I only pressed in flush with the end of the crank. Should it have been pressed in further? Am I grasping at straws?
fourspeed - With the SFI scatter shield, TTI Header, and mini-starter, not much room and initially shortened the z-bar arm about .5" to clear the header tube. This last removal, added about .25" back, had to add another bend, to regain some of the through I lost from the original shortening. So, I think it's as maxed out for I can make it. The car was originally a /6, so the fender pivot, might be a little off, but I was able to fabricate the SS pivot to align both horizontally/vertically. So, should be ok there.
May tackle the trans rebuilt if I have too, but can think of anything that would cause it to slip??... Tore down the 3-speed trans that came with the car and kept the output shaft and shaft in case I need to rebuild...
fstfish66 - Have free play after clutch is released, so PP and TO bearing is fully disengaging from clutch plate/flywheel. Car moves forward in any gear and reverse, but will not not move under load. The first time, got stuck in the middle of the street and couldn't make it up the driveway incline... So, ever since then, all testing is done on jack stands w/e-brake...
If I take of driveshaft, how would I put any pressure/load on trans?
Talked to Dave Brewer today and he thinks, like others have suggested, it's scatter shield alignment. Said .0010" off can create a problem and need to use a service manual and offset dowels... Hmm... seems like an awfully tight tolerance, but assuming he knows what he's talking about. Also, said he didn't like the roller pilot crank bushing.
So, maybe need to use dial indicator and check SS alignment. Also, maybe I'll swap out the roller bearing with the bronze/brass one. I bought both initially.
Have you ever installed the press in bushing? Can I install easily? Any recommended methods?
Now that I think of it, the press in bearing sets further back in the crank compared to where I have the roller bushing inserted. I only pressed in flush with the end of the crank. Should it have been pressed in further? Am I grasping at straws?
