Quick question!

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Orionsax7

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So my starter finally gave in to heat-soaking and the Demon is stranded in the parking lot of my wife's work. Gonna try it one more time in the morning but it looks like I'll be getting a tow truck. :-(

Do the Hedman full length headers have to come off to take of the stock starter?

-Alex
 
If its a full size starter,you will have to at least loosen the collectors and headers bolts and may have to remove the header from the head to get out the starter.Now is the time to buy a diponesso starter off a dodge dakota V6/V8 and install that,half the size,half the weight,and more cranking HP,Mrmopartech
 
Mrmopartech said:
If its a full size starter,you will have to at least loosen the collectors and headers bolts and may have to remove the header from the head to get out the starter.Now is the time to buy a diponesso starter off a dodge dakota V6/V8 and install that,half the size,half the weight,and more cranking HP,Mrmopartech


...but twice the price. I really wanted to go that route but money is extremely tight right now and my car needs to run today so I can't spend time at the boneyards. My current starter has full warranty so I'll get money back when I get around to buying the smaller one. I'll make it defective..haha
 
When I was a kid (early 20's) I went through several starters. Same deal. Heat from headers. The parts guy couldn't understand what the heck was going on. He asked if I had headers. The reply was yes.
He suggested to me that I use a "360 HI temp starter" I had no idea what he was talking about, but there was a sticker on the side saying hi-temp. That was the last starter I put in period.
 
I don't know if this has been mentioned before on this site, if it has I never came across it, but I found a different way to take off the stock starter WITHOUT even touching the Hedman headers on my '71 Demon.

Being that I had to lift my engine to remove the headers I had to figure something out. What I did was remove the driver's side inner tie rod from the centerlink. After moving it out of the way, the starter ALMOST came out through the hole between the number 7 cylinder pipe and the rest of them. It hit the centerlink and the power steering gearbox by an eyelash. So I also removed the centerlink and voila! (I don't mean completely remove, just unattach them from the pitman arm and swing them out of the way.) Moved the driver side tie rods out of the way, moved the pitman arm out the way and moved the centerlink out of the way and the start came out between the header pipes by the steering gearbox. I had to angle it pointing downwards towards the front left tire and rotate it on the way out to make room for the solenoid but it came out quite easily in that space. Poppes in the new starter through that smae space and replaced the steering assembly.

I finished it pretty darned fast once I figured how how to do it. Once it was out it took be about fifteen minutes to put the new one in, rewire, and button up the steering. If I had to do it again, it'd take about 40 minutes tops.

Hope this helps some of you. I'll get some pics of the space where the starter cam out when I get back to Houston on Sunday.


-Alex
 
Good tip, I'll remember that one cause ,I got a 70 340 Duster with the
original starter in it, but no headers so it may be a little easier.
I had a 69 road runner w/hooker headers and it went through quite
a few starters cause of the headers. I had to take the header off each time
and it was a real pain in the you know where. That was back in early '80's
I would think new headers are lot more efficient, than 20 years ago, with
all the new coatings that has been developed.
 
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