Help me build my 360!

1. External, look at the outer ring there is an area visable in the picture that that is not relieved, this is the extra metal for the external balancing.

2. It is expensive for the mallory metal and the actuall balancing processs gets more expensive when they have to add metal verse remove metal. Unless you plan to be turning in excess of 6000 rpm all the time its not worth the expense or effort to internally balance.

3. Yes you can use stock rods with the stroker crank but Scat and Eagle both sell I-beam rods that are stronger than stock and cost the same or less than having stock rods reconditioned with new bolts. Yes you will need pistons with a shorter compression height for a stroker motor.

4. If there are any gouges or scouring of the main or rod journels you have to have the crank machined to remove them. To make up for the reduction in juournal diameter they sell bearings that are under size. Same idea as going over size on the piston. The bearings are easy to install, just press into place with your fingers but you need to be able to measure the clearance, that is what plastigauge is for. It is a small piece of pastic strip that when clamped between the bearing and the journal will smear out. The width of the smear is compared to a chart to determine the clearance.

5. 9.5:1 is a safe bet for an open chamber LA head but closed chamber heads that are set up with a tight quench (the space between the flat surface of the head over the piston and the top of the piston) of around 0.040" generates a lot of turbulence in the chamber near TDC which is good for preventing detonation. The effect can be created with domed pistons and an open chamber head but to get the the right clearance the pistons need to be machined to the contour of the head. The closed chamber and flat top is just a better way to do it.

6. get your self a book on rebuilding mopar small blocks and read it. It will give most all the info you will need to know.

7. Not sure