Squeeling coming from front end...

-
They only replaced the Shoes, Pads, wheel stud, dust cap, master cylinder, self adjuster kit.... should they of said something about the bearings at that point?
 
This will probably get me in trouble with some of the professional mechanics on here but here goes;
they had to remove the wheel bearings to get at the brakes. they should have inspected, cleaned and repacked (grease replacement) them. a good mechanic would be able to tell if they were bad between the cleaning and repacking stages and should have said something if they were questionable. That only leaves improper installation after the brake job as the cause for them going bad so soon after your brake job.
 
OK I'll question replaced pads and a dust cap... Did they remove the front rotors ? Was a dust cap missing ?
We should find out where the bad bearing is first. They wouldn't have disturbed rear axle bearings in brake service. Good luck
 
cuda65vpt said:
I thought we were talking drum brakes, but replacing a missing dust cover is another big clue that something may be amiss.
Click to expand...

Regardless of whether it is drum or disk, if the shop replaced a stud on the front, the hub had to removed from the car. I think the brake shop has some explaining to do.

I have a grease gun and a bearing packer that makes packing the bearings a lot easier than by hand. If someone can loan you a gun and packer, it will save hours and do a better job. Auto Zone or O'Reilly may have them in their loan a tool program.
All the same, before starting, make sure that the work area and the parts are as clean as possible. Start with the small bearings and pump grease until it comes uniformly out of the bearing races. If a packer and grease gun are available, skip the next two paragraphs.

To pack a clean (no lube) bearing, take the tub of bearing grease, put a little dab on your hand, and pack it into the larger diameter side of the bearing. Keep working grease into this area until it emerges from between the rollers on the small diameter side of the bearing. Once this happens, move the start point over a couple of rollers and begin again. Pack from one side to the other to prevent lubrication voids in the bearing. Continue until the bearing is completely packed. This part of the process will seem to take forever.

Once the bearing is packed, wipe the outer race until there is only a thin veneer of grease on it. Cover the greased bearing completely to keep dirt and grit off of it.

Clean the bearing races on the hub. Unless there are metal filings or obvious evidence of sand when the hub was taken off, there usually is no reason to sweat cleaning out the hub between the races. Most sources recommend cleaning it out, however.

Set the greased inner bearing in its race and gently tap the grease seal into place. I use a bfh and a short piece of 2x4. Work slowly and carefully so that the seal seats squarely and completely in the hub. Wipe a thin layer of grease on the spindle and mount the brake and hub assembly.

Wipe the space between the cage and the race of the inner wheel bearing on both sides with a light coat of grease. Put the smaller bearing on the spindle, add the washer, and tighten the nut behind it to 12 ft/lbs. Spin the wheel in a forward direction while tightening the nut to 20 ft/lbs. This will let the hub sit properly on the spindle, squishing out any excess grease. Stop the wheel rotation and reverse the nut ¼ turn. Finger tighten the nut until snug. Line up slots in the nut lock with the whole drilled across the diameter of the spindle. Insert a new cotter key bending the ends in opposite directions. Softly tap the dust cap into place and bolt on a wheel.

Grasp the wheel at the top and bottom and rock back and forth. There should be no clicking from the wheel bearing.

Good luck
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top