Another opinion question

Moper, I agree that we differ on alot of things, it seems that you as alot of other people want to use a 4" stoke crank. But the reason that you have to use the other high dollar parts is the fact that the the rod angles are way out of wack and at the angles that you like to use causes the rods undue stress along with the cranks. If you would look at the cylinder walls after a few hard runs on the engine you would see that the cylinders aren't round anymore due to the side loading of the pistons and the crank loads. Yes adding a crank will add CI but your angle and position of the crank throw is in the wrong spot when the cylinders fire, which adds to the side loading of the cylinder walls. Also you will have to have a bigger volume cylinder head to accomidate the bigger CIs of the engine, with this your trading off the torque that the crankshaft makes for slow velocity in the heads, and now you need to run a bigger cam with more duration, thus getting radically away from the street engines that don't turn high rpms.
I learned along time ago to QUIT trying to reinvent what the engineers get paid alot of money to do, and use there knowledge that they give us against them, it's cheaper than making a new wheel. (if you follow me) Maybe this is why the 406s 414s and 416s don't run any faster than a good small block with good parts. Also the engines that you say that you can't find parts for, I generally get engines complete, so the good rods and cranks are already there and you don't have to look for them. The engines that I build don't generally have to be turned over 6000-6200rpms anyway and run in the 11s with ease on pump gas at 3100-3200 lbs. weather it's a 318,or a 360.
It's the combination of parts that makes the engines produce power and torque not just crankshafts and big valves.
But I guess that we'll just have to agree to disagree.



BJR Racing