Starting and Running Problem...

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edb_app

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Today started up the car and heard a loud ticking sound. About a week ago I took off the valve cover to replace the gasket. Noticed some of the valves were loose so I tightened them by hand. Today I opened the cover back up and found that one nut on one of the valves was completely off and the other loose. This time I used my tools to tighten them. Put the valve cover back on and just like that no ticking. I also noticed that one of the spark plug wires was loose. I think I didn't put it on tight enough when I replaced the spark plugs that same day I did the gasket. Once that was fixed I tried to start her up again and she would just stall automatically. I had to keep my foot on the gas in order for it to keep running but while running it was backfiring like crazy. I took off the air filter to check the carb. and the flap would not close and I had someone start it while I looked at the connections of everything (no I don't know what everything is called yet... but there are springs and wires and such...pic below of the setup{and no I did not do any of changes, I know she's choking with that air filter if you can help with ideas on a replacement}) and it through a huge flame up. I had to get it home so I two-foot it all the way... gas and brake at the same time. But if the idle dropped to low it would first loose all power and then stall (turn signals would stop blinking and stay on steady no blinking and headlights would dim so you could not see the road and of course the loss of power steering) I had to start the car again in Neutral then two-foot it into drive.... I want to get this fixed tomorrow morning because I have a Mariners game to go to in the evening.... PLEASE HELP!!!! Any questions or suggestions would be GREAT!!!! Thanks so much FABO!!!!

Just a reminder... I am a new owner of an old school... so any knowledge is great knowledge!

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I wish I had a definite answer for you, but I don't... :)

It sounds like there are multiple problems, as for why your car won't idle... it could be your timing is off, it could be a clogged fuel filter, it could be your carburetor has gunk in it, or that your idle is set too low, large vacuum leak.. did this just start, or has it always been this way?


good luck. and go mariners!

-j
 
Well, need more info.

When you say that you tightened the valves, do you mean that you tightened the adjustable rocker arms? If so, there is a required sequence to adjusting those. With the valve cover off and the plugs removed, have someone turn the engine over and watch the rockers. Starting with the #1 cylinder, when the intake just opens...adjust the exhaust, when the exhaust closes...adjust the intake. Your intake should be adjusted to .010" and the exhaust should be .020". These numbers are for a hot engine, so you would probably be safe to adjust them to .013" and .023" cold. If that fixes it, you can recheck them hot.

When you changed the spark plugs, did you move the distributor? If so, it should be set at around 2.5 before TDC. I don't know what year model you have, but that will be very close.

Did you remove more than one plug wire at a time? If you did, you may have mixed them up.
The firing order is 1-5-3-6-2-4, clockwise around the distributor cap. The cylinders are numbered from front to rear.

On the drivers side of the firewall is a white or off-white ceramic block with some wires on it. Replace it. They are cheap and they burn up. It's called a ballast resistor.

The valve adjustment really needs to be done correctly or you could bend valves. Hopefully nothing like that has already happened.

Good Luck
 
the backfire is from the valves being to tight,like 340 dave was saying,with the engine warmed up adjust the valves to .010 on the intake valves and .020 on the exhaust valves,and loose the lawn mower air cleaner in favor of a stock replacement that lil' dinky thing is choking the fuel mileage right out of the lil' slanty.you can put an ad in the wanted section for a stock air cleaner and valve cover breather,and from the looks of the fuel leakage the carb should be rebuilt and a new fuel filter. the rocker shafts should be tightened but the rockers themselves get adjusted,use a flat feeler gauge for valve adjustment.pm me if you need more help on this or you can get a service manual for the car or borrow one.hope this is helpful and good luck with it

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Thanks everyone for the input. So I checked under the distributor cap and everything was fine. Made sure all the spark plug wires in the right place. So now I am going to try adjusting the valves. The engine is warm and I have removed the valve cover. How do I adjust the valves to .010 on the intake and .020 on the exhaust?
 
You will need a feeler gauge set and some typical hand tools for adjusting the rockers.

Have someone turn the engine over while you watch the rockers. An inexpensive switch can be purchased that will allow you to connect the switch to the starter relay. With the key off you can use the switch to rotate the engine yourself while watching the rockers. This method is much easier than the helper method.

Starting with the #1 (forward) cylinder, when the intake just starts to open....have your helper stop....and adjust the intake to .010". When the exhaust just closes...have your helper stop....and adjust the exhaust to .020".
Repeat for all six cylinders and your done.
 
I went out and bought a feeler gauge so how do i measure? I have the .010 out, am I supposed to fit it underneath the rockers and tighten till it lays right on top of the gauge? It seems like I would have to tighten all of them too much to get it be down on the gauge. Also removed all the spark plugs and #6 smelled like fuel and had oil on it. Here is a pic.

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When I adjust my valves (360 with adjustable rockers) I always have to remove the spark plugs and turn the motor over by hand (turn the balancer bolt with rachet and socket) to get the valve to stop RIGHT where I want it before I make the adjustment. It is just easier for me to do it that way.

The feeler gauge goes between the rocker arm and the valve stem.
 
When I adjust my valves (360 with adjustable rockers) I always have to remove the spark plugs and turn the motor over by hand (turn the balancer bolt with rachet and socket) to get the valve to stop RIGHT where I want it before I make the adjustment. It is just easier for me to do it that way.

The feeler gauge goes between the rocker arm and the valve stem.

Where is the balancer bolt located? Its kinda hard to stop the engine where you want it. And I just want to clarify... Adjust exhaust when closed and intake when open?
 
Where is the balancer bolt located? Its kinda hard to stop the engine where you want it. And I just want to clarify... Adjust exhaust when closed and intake when open?
The balancer bolt is on the end of the crankshaft. It'll be the large bolt head in the center of the crank pulley (bottom front of the engine). Each individual valve will be adjusted when it's closed. This gives room for expansion and such to keep from bending things.
 
[/quote] Each individual valve will be adjusted when it's closed. This gives room for expansion and such to keep from bending things.[/quote]

When the valves are down there is no gap at all right now... When each individual valve is closed is it up or down?


Thanks so much FABO friends your amazing!!!!
 
The valve is closed when the valve is in the up position. There should be just a bit of resistance on the feeler gauge if you try to slide it in and out when the proper clearance is achieved.
 
Okay I got it running and it stays running (Thanks to all of you)!!!! But the idle is rough... shaking the car quite a bit. Took it for a drive and all seems fine except for the roughness... any ideas??? The game starts in an hour... so PLEASE HELP!!!
 
Okay I got it running and it stays running (Thanks to all of you)!!!! But the idle is rough... shaking the car quite a bit. Took it for a drive and all seems fine except for the roughness... any ideas??? The game starts in an hour... so PLEASE HELP!!!
Is it rough only at idle, or does it smooth out as RPMs increase?
 
Okay it is still rough at idle... but smooths out now. Sounds a whole lot better too. Please keep leaving messages if you can think of anything else.. but for now Im off to the game... PLAY BALL!!!!!
 
Cool. :thumbrig: If it keeps getting smoother, it may have been something as simple as some fouled plugs from the previous condition. Keep us in the loop.
 
ok sounds like a couple of them are still too tight,most slaty's dont have balancer bolts so you will have to bump the engine over,with a screwdriver across the starter terminals,more on this later,bump the engine over till you see the intake valve for the #1 cylinder start to go downward(opening the intake valve)and use the .020 gauge in between the tip of the rocker arm and the valve stem(lil' round "thingie" in center of the valve spring)loosen the adjuster nut on the opposite side of the rocker arm till the feeler gauge will slide in with a lil' pressure(tiny bit) then you are done with the exhaust side of that cylinder.now bump the engine over till the exhaust valve starts to move downward (opening the exhaust valve).now you are ready to adjust the intake valve for the #1 cylinder and use the .010 gauge and adjust that to fit.you are now done adjusting the valves for the #1 cylinder,Next step...adjust the other five cylinders following this procedure(lather, rinse, repeat) ok you can buy a remote starter button to bump the engine over and look like a pro or use a screwdriver across the starter terminals and save money and look "brave" either one will work make sure your hands are not in the fan.make sure the ignition switch is in the off position before trying this and the emergency brake on and chock the wheels to be on the safe side.I'll see if I can find a pic of the starter motor so I can show you the terminals.oh well can't find a pic so you'll have to brave it!!!so ennywho your gonna see the starter motor on the side of the engine and there will be two wires hooked to it,a big one and a lil' one take a screwdriver and touch the big terminal of it with the tip of the screwdriver and then move the screwdriver till it touches the lil' terminal and the big terminal at the same time and the starter will spin the engine over(MAKE SURE KEY IS OFF)with practice you can give it lil' bumps to spin the engine and adjust the valves...if this turns out to be a shocking experience dont stand in water while doing it!!! j/k it's only 12 volts it wont hurt you.(don't try this with the coil wire)it'll straighten your hair or curl it(whichever one you don't like)

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don't forget that the .10/.20 is for for when it's warmed up, if you're adjusting it cold, better to use the .13 / .23 numbers given, and recheck while it's running.
 
ok sounds like a couple of them are still too tight,most slaty's dont have balancer bolts so you will have to bump the engine over,with a screwdriver across the starter terminals,more on this later,bump the engine over till you see the intake valve for the #1 cylinder start to go downward(opening the intake valve)and use the .020 gauge in between the tip of the rocker arm and the valve stem(lil' round "thingie" in center of the valve spring)loosen the adjuster nut on the opposite side of the rocker arm till the feeler gauge will slide in with a lil' pressure(tiny bit) then you are done with the exhaust side of that cylinder.now bump the engine over till the exhaust valve starts to move downward (opening the exhaust valve).now you are ready to adjust the intake valve for the #1 cylinder and use the .010 gauge and adjust that to fit.you are now done adjusting the valves for the #1 cylinder,Next step...adjust the other five cylinders following this procedure(lather, rinse, repeat) ok you can buy a remote starter button to bump the engine over and look like a pro or use a screwdriver across the starter terminals and save money and look "brave" either one will work make sure your hands are not in the fan.make sure the ignition switch is in the off position before trying this and the emergency brake on and chock the wheels to be on the safe side.I'll see if I can find a pic of the starter motor so I can show you the terminals.oh well can't find a pic so you'll have to brave it!!!so ennywho your gonna see the starter motor on the side of the engine and there will be two wires hooked to it,a big one and a lil' one take a screwdriver and touch the big terminal of it with the tip of the screwdriver and then move the screwdriver till it touches the lil' terminal and the big terminal at the same time and the starter will spin the engine over(MAKE SURE KEY IS OFF)with practice you can give it lil' bumps to spin the engine and adjust the valves...if this turns out to be a shocking experience dont stand in water while doing it!!! j/k it's only 12 volts it wont hurt you.(don't try this with the coil wire)it'll straighten your hair or curl it(whichever one you don't like)

I'm glad you posted this ... I believe she might have been adjusting the intake lets say with it starting to push the valve down.... that's not going to work.

The exhaust needs to be adjusted as the intake starts to go down on the same cylinder.
 
So I started her up again today after perfect driving all night... and there it was again the ticking... so I opened up the valve cover and look what I found.....

This is the same one that was off the first time it happened. It is the #6 exhaust... the bolt that holds the rod keeps coming off... below is a pick of the bolt with messed up threading and the rod and bolt.

Could the threading in the rod be bad too??? Help me supermen!!!

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I have seen worse....it looks like it just needs re threaded.

What does the threads look like in the rocker?
 
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