Starting and Running Problem...

Glad the guys are helping with the valve issue. Thanks for the photos of the engine compartment and all. I kept looking at the vacuum hose routing and said to myself, "Something ain't right, here." Off-hand, I'd say there has been a bunch of third world line and port capping as a result of hacking out the emissions control systems. Suggest getting an assortment of vacuum port caps and get rid of the hoses with screws stuck in them. Just about any auto parts store carries them in a blister pack.

There also has been some substantial fuel leakage from the carburetor. If the carburetor is wet after a long run, it is still leaking and needs attention. I'm no big fan of early EGR systems and would recommend putting a metal plug in the hole in the bottom of the intake in the event the carburetor is removed. I enlarged the hole in my intake a little and used a press-fit oil gallery plug to close it up.

If you want to change your air filter housing, get one from a 67 or earlier /6 that does not have the closed crankcase breather. The open and snorkel air filter housings have different element heights. Know which year model is donating your replacement housing. The closed crankcase breather air filter housings have a 90º elbow off the side that connects via hose to the closed crankcase breather (yours is open). In truth any /6 1 bbl air filter housing will work. Since the breather enters upstream of the air filter element, there's no compromise to the engine by leaving it open.