think baby needs a bottle

mshred said
Hey Ramcharger, great info on this...ive ben thinking about some squeeze for my 340 too...would the type of internals make a difference on how much you would be able to spray? lets say i have a 340, 10.5:1 cr , iron heads and wanted to spray a 100shot...would i be able to go more and avoid detonation or should i run less?

What pistons are you using? Big doses of nitrous require forged pistons, hyperutetics can handle up about a 150 shot and stock pistons can go up to a 100 shot ASSUMING EVERYTHING ELSE IS CORRECT! The rods, crank and bottom end also need to be built to handle the total amount of HP you will be making with the N2O.

Also, N2O is not a cure-all. If you have timing, jetting, vacuum leaks, etc., it will only get worse when you're on the button and result in engine destruction. The engine must be in perfect running condition, then 2 degrees of timing must pulled out for every 50HP added by N2O. If you're not detonating now and pull the correct amount of timing, you should be fine but should check your plugs after your first runs to confirm it.

You can pull timing out in two ways. Manually at the distributor or automatically via an ignition box that has this feature or a seperate nitrous controller. If you do it manually, you'll most likely be down on power until the button is hit. The auto boxes are the ****, lol. They sense power on the lead to the solonoids and pull a pre-seat amount of timing. I like the Mallory 685 box. It incorporates a window switch, auto timing retard and a two stage rev limiter and there are no chips to buy.

A window switch is great when used in conjuction with a full throttle activation switch. The full thottle switch activates and sends power to the box, the box then will not allow power to the solenoids until a pre-set rpm limit is hit, then will cut power at another pre-set limit before the rev limiter is hit.

Oh yeah, never hit the N2O until at least 3000 rpm.

oh and why does hitting the rev limiter while on the bottle destroy the manifold? thats something ive never heard before and am curious to know more:read2:

The rev limiter stops the engine from accelerating and allows N2O to back up in the intake manifold and exhaust system and "BAM!". Like formula1968 said, newer cars with "dry" nitrous systems that cut fuel are more prone to intake explosions then our older stuff, but exhaust explosions are just as prevalent. Also, once the engine drops in rpm and comes back into full ignition the sudden "whack effect" on the pistons can cause some serious damage.

A few more things to keep in mind:

If you hit the nitrous with the car off, DO NOT try to start it! Engine damage will result.

There is a siphon tube in the bottle that picks up the nitrous. This means that the bottle must be mounted in a specific position recommended by the manufacturer.

Don't use telfon tape on the threaded connections. It can break off and clog the jets, delivery tubes, etc causing a lean condition.

The bottle should be at about 85 degrees for a pressure of about 900 psi. Don't hit the button on a cold morning, it'll just gag. There are bottle warmers that solve this problem. Don't use a torch like the idiots on Pinks.

I suggest a entirely seperate fuel system with it's own fuel tank filled with race fuel for applications using a 150 hp or larger shot.

I hope this helps!