75 Duster Neutral Safety Switch... I need to replace it!

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edb_app

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I was told at a car shop today that I need to replace my neutral safety switch. I have no clue where its located or how much it would cost for a new one. Has anyone ever replaced one?
 
Its under the car and screwed into the drivers side of the trans case.
It has a 3 wire connecter that pushes straight on its contact posts.
 
If available (and it should be), it is easy. It's on the driver's side of your trans just above the pan and to the rear of the linkage. You should have wires (taped together) running to it. Pull the cap (attached to the end of the wires), remove the old switch and replace. Note: Make sure it is the same switch and look at the # of prongs on it.
 
What is wrong with the car? The NSS is a fairly reliable part.

When I turn the ignition it doesn't start unless I turn on and off the headlights or put the car in neutral and back into park. Would this be the NSS???
 
Sounds like an adjustment issue.

The rubber plug is notorious for rotting out and not providing a good connection.
 
So I jack up the car and do underneath to complete this right? Is is hard to replace a tranny gasket at the same time? They said I needed that as well... problem after problem... haha... but shes well worth the effort!!!
 
Column shift car? Could need some fresh linkage bushings to get solid movement.
 
So I jack up the car and do underneath to complete this right? Is is hard to replace a tranny gasket at the same time? They said I needed that as well... problem after problem... haha... but shes well worth the effort!!!


is your tranny pan leaking, or are they just trying to scam you?

here is how the switch should look in your tranny....

nss.jpg
 
It was leaking when the front end was up to look at the bearings.... I saw the fluid leaking out the back of the pan and instantly knew it was tranny. He said it's only leaking because it was tilted... but since then I have seen it more often. I could see where it was leaking from... but wasn't under the car. Just wondering what needs to be done to fix this. Thanks all in advance!!!
 
It is likely that the linkage is worn or out of adjustment. It is also likely that the switch is leaking and not the pan gasket, I chased that for fifteen years on my GTS.
 
Hey yall never told me that tranny fluid was going to leak everywhere!!! Now that I made a huge mess of my parking lot and got some kitty litter to soak up the spill... I replaced the NSS.

While under the car I found the reason for the tranny leak. It is a corroded cable right near the tranny pan. Any idea of what this is and how hard it is to replace?

Also, after the replacement of the NSS and of course tranny fluid, We tried starting her up... everything was fine at first but once she was turned off and we tried to restart... nothing! She still needs some kind of spark to get her going (i.e. turning the headlights on and off, putting the car into gear and back into park a couple times). It is really frustrating that I spent money on a part that didn't need replaced just because a mechanic told me to. Any ideas on how to REALLY fix this problem??? Thanks in advance!
 
You sure it's not your starter? What happens if when you turn the ignition? If if goes click each time, or even nothing, what happens? If you resist the urge to touch and move the shift linkage or mess with the lights, and just keep turning the ignition on and off and on and off - does it turnover eventually? If so, it's probably a bad comm on the starter. If not ... then it's probably your linkage as mentioned.
 
Here's another test for you

Unplug the NSS wiring from the switch. Take a wire from the center terminal and ground it. Does the car start easily? If it does, the switch or linkage adjustment is bad. If not and the problem pesists, it's something else. Probably should have done this before replacing the NSS switch and getting the fluid bath! :-D

Relay, bad wire connections, bad starter, ignition switch.
 
You sure it's not your starter? What happens if when you turn the ignition? If if goes click each time, or even nothing, what happens? If you resist the urge to touch and move the shift linkage or mess with the lights, and just keep turning the ignition on and off and on and off - does it turnover eventually? If so, it's probably a bad comm on the starter. If not ... then it's probably your linkage as mentioned.

There is no clicking (then I would know its the starter, I wish it was that simple!!! haha)... I have replaced the starter cylinoid thinking that was the problem and now the NSS.

Its just silent... oil light comes on like it wants to start and I noticed this morning when I turn the key and watched the gauge marked "Alternator" the volts dropped way down, when I turned the lights on and off it went to the center point and started. Could this be an alternator or Voltage Reg problem?

What is "linkage" and how do I inspect that or test that? Is it hard to replace and how much am I looking at to spend "IF" that is the problem?

I am learning as I go fellas so thanks for all the help!
 
There is no clicking (then I would know its the starter, I wish it was that simple!!! haha)... I have replaced the starter cylinoid thinking that was the problem and now the NSS.

Its just silent... oil light comes on like it wants to start and I noticed this morning when I turn the key and watched the gauge marked "Alternator" the volts dropped way down, when I turned the lights on and off it went to the center point and started. Could this be an alternator or Voltage Reg problem?

What is "linkage" and how do I inspect that or test that? I am learning as I go fellas so thanks for all the help!

Replace the ballast resister on the drivers side firewall - it's a $5-$10 part - the white thingy.
 
I will buy it, try it and it doesn't work take it back... and if its not that?

The best approach is to trouble shoot the electrical system, and I'm not the guy to explain how to do that to you - someone else will hopefully pick that back up where it's been left off.

I doubt you'll be able to return it - or any other electrical part - after testing it, but with these cars, you should always have a spare BR in your glove compartment because they are notorious for going more often than probably any other part besides rebuilt alternators.
 
The ballast has nothing to do with the starter circuit, that's the ignition circuit. Don't spend money there at this point because the car doesn't turn over.

Does the starter kick over when jumping the relay on the fender?
Check the NSS switch plug as mentioned above.
Disconnect the shifter linkage from the bottom lever, there are two levers, top is kickdown, at the trans. When you disconnect the linkage, observe if the linkage wants to, has play to move rearward. Move the lever all the way back, that's park. See if the car will start, move arm two clicks forward, neutral, see if it starts.

If the linkage bushing are in bad shape your NSS may not be getting activated by the trans internals. You mention slamming the lever into park and the car will turn over. That's a symptom of bad bushings or misadjustment.
 
Okay so today it started to stall when put into reverse or drive.

While having this problem I got under the car and removed the NSS plug cleaned the connectors and plugged back it back up... now it starts just fine!!!

But, it is stalling while put into drive or reverse. It started after the guy at Schucks tested the battery (I know it probably has nothing to do with it, but thats when it happened). He told me the car was gas starved and that it could be the fuel pump, debris in the fuel line blocking the screen and something else that I can't remember.

So whats the score now? Whats my next move... if you have any questions... that I can answer to get my baby back on the road with out two footing her everywhere... I will be glad to answer!!! Thanks again fellas...

Oh and are you supposed to be able to put the car into gear without pressing the brake? Because thats what mine is doing now... could that be the linkage everyone is talking about???
 
Starting problem fixed but its still stalling when put into drive or reverse. Put a new EGR valve on today now trying to figure out what to try tomorrow.
 
Starting problem fixed but its still stalling when put into drive or reverse. Put a new EGR valve on today now trying to figure out what to try tomorrow.
If it's like our 67 we had the same problem. It was intermitant NSS grounding out against linkage & linkage mushy. Replaced white plastic linkage bushing and rehung wire with tie straps & rewrapped wire at short. Problem solved. Well that problem anyway!
Also was it the pan gasket or switch that was leaking? I couldn't understand it leaking when tilted up in front. If the fluid level was only up to the pan seal it would not have leaked from switch, the switch is higher?
Good Luck! Keep us posted.
 
If it's like our 67 we had the same problem. It was intermitant NSS grounding out against linkage & linkage mushy. Replaced white plastic linkage bushing and rehung wire with tie straps & rewrapped wire at short. Problem solved. Well that problem anyway!

So all of that is located right near the NSS, is that right? Everything under there is covered in gunk so I cant see much.

Also was it the pan gasket or switch that was leaking? I couldn't understand it leaking when tilted up in front. If the fluid level was only up to the pan seal it would not have leaked from switch, the switch is higher?
Good Luck! Keep us posted.

It isn't the pan as we found out when we got under there. It is one of the tubes that carry the tranny fluid... its almost completely rotted through, not sure how to replace that either... but right now I need to get this baby running and staying running. I leave for the airport at 5am tomorrow morning!

Also, with the EGR, is the hole supposed to be sealed? When we removed the old one it looked as though someone filled the hole up with something... could this of broken up and gotten into the engine? And could the hole prevent it from staying running?

Thanks again everyone... I have 16 hours to fix it... HELP!!!
 
about the egr , who knows ? Those things have been blocked off a 1000 different ways. To block it off doesn't hurt anything. Having one stuck in a not fully closed position causes poor idle, etc.
I could tell you how to repair or replace the tans coolr line(s) but you will need materials and the correct tools .
 
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