Best Way to reach 500 hp ,, Cheap !
Car: 1972 Valiant; 3,340 pounds car only, weight; think of it as a 4-door Duster (17 pounds heavier, according to the "Standard Catalog of American Cars" reference book.)
Engine: stock short block 1998 360 Magnum, except for cam.
Cam: Hughesperformance hyd. roller 214/218 @.050" with .525" total lift, with 116 degrees of lobe separation. His catalog says it's a "good supercharger cam." Roller rockers; 300# (open) valve springs and heavy-duty pushrods.
9:1 compression; 185 psi cranking compression
Stock Magnum heads except for some minimal bowl porting and a 3-angle valve job.
Stock lubrication system; M-P stock-type distributor (mildly quicker advance rate than the stock mechanical advance curve.)
MSD Boostmaster ignition module (retards spark 1,2, or 3 degrees per pound of boost, your choice, from a dash-mounted control) up to 15 crankshaft degrees.
Chinese Air Gap ripoff intake manifold ({Professional Products.)
Carb Shop 750 Holley4150 double pumper, modified for blow-thru service.
Electric fuel pump that pumps 31 psi, regulated down to 6 psi, with a boost-referenced regulator that keeps the fuel pressure constanly 6 pounds more than whatever the boost is.
TTI complete header/H-pipe/tailpipe 2.5" system.
Snowperformance BoostCooler water/methanol injection kit
904 T-Flite with 318 converter and a Trans-Go shift kit.
8.75" rear end with 3.55 gears (soon to be 4.10s).
Vortech V-1, S-trim supercharger; 6-rib serpentine belt.
Attached are some pictures and a chassis dyno printout, (rear wheel HP and torque) and a timeslip with a really poor 60-foor time (it was 48 degrees; no traction; spinning all the way through low gear).
There was no "kit" so I had to make everything myself, including the mounting plate. I installed a half-inch fuel system made from silicon push-on technology hose from a chassis shop that builds world-class dirt track cars (is that an oxymoron?) The counter guy said if that stuff will survive dirt track racing (and, it does), it shouldn't have any trouble surviving on the street (or, strip.)
So far, no problems...
Anyway, I spent a bundle (for ME) on this thing, but I have a car that will run 11 second e.t.'s and idles at 475 rpm, fairly smoothly. Driveability is like a stock, 318 2-bbl.
The dyno guy said to multiply my rear wheel hp of 445 by 1.17 to get approximate flywheel hp. That would be 523 lywheel hp. Rear wheel torque (as you can see on the dyno sheet) was 470..
That is with 10 pounds of boost and no intercooer.
No guarantees as to how long this time bomb will last, but if I can keep that ol' bugaboo of detonation away, it MAY last awhile...
Next stop; forged pistons, H-beam rods, and Cometic gaskets!!! And, I have a 4" crank that may or may not ever see the inside of that block... lol!
Hope this helps!
PLEASE, no comments about the firewall wiring; I'm a VERY sensitive guy.... LOL!!!
Car: 1972 Valiant; 3,340 pounds car only, weight; think of it as a 4-door Duster (17 pounds heavier, according to the "Standard Catalog of American Cars" reference book.)
Engine: stock short block 1998 360 Magnum, except for cam.
Cam: Hughesperformance hyd. roller 214/218 @.050" with .525" total lift, with 116 degrees of lobe separation. His catalog says it's a "good supercharger cam." Roller rockers; 300# (open) valve springs and heavy-duty pushrods.
9:1 compression; 185 psi cranking compression
Stock Magnum heads except for some minimal bowl porting and a 3-angle valve job.
Stock lubrication system; M-P stock-type distributor (mildly quicker advance rate than the stock mechanical advance curve.)
MSD Boostmaster ignition module (retards spark 1,2, or 3 degrees per pound of boost, your choice, from a dash-mounted control) up to 15 crankshaft degrees.
Chinese Air Gap ripoff intake manifold ({Professional Products.)
Carb Shop 750 Holley4150 double pumper, modified for blow-thru service.
Electric fuel pump that pumps 31 psi, regulated down to 6 psi, with a boost-referenced regulator that keeps the fuel pressure constanly 6 pounds more than whatever the boost is.
TTI complete header/H-pipe/tailpipe 2.5" system.
Snowperformance BoostCooler water/methanol injection kit
904 T-Flite with 318 converter and a Trans-Go shift kit.
8.75" rear end with 3.55 gears (soon to be 4.10s).
Vortech V-1, S-trim supercharger; 6-rib serpentine belt.
Attached are some pictures and a chassis dyno printout, (rear wheel HP and torque) and a timeslip with a really poor 60-foor time (it was 48 degrees; no traction; spinning all the way through low gear).
There was no "kit" so I had to make everything myself, including the mounting plate. I installed a half-inch fuel system made from silicon push-on technology hose from a chassis shop that builds world-class dirt track cars (is that an oxymoron?) The counter guy said if that stuff will survive dirt track racing (and, it does), it shouldn't have any trouble surviving on the street (or, strip.)
So far, no problems...
Anyway, I spent a bundle (for ME) on this thing, but I have a car that will run 11 second e.t.'s and idles at 475 rpm, fairly smoothly. Driveability is like a stock, 318 2-bbl.
The dyno guy said to multiply my rear wheel hp of 445 by 1.17 to get approximate flywheel hp. That would be 523 lywheel hp. Rear wheel torque (as you can see on the dyno sheet) was 470..
That is with 10 pounds of boost and no intercooer.
No guarantees as to how long this time bomb will last, but if I can keep that ol' bugaboo of detonation away, it MAY last awhile...
Next stop; forged pistons, H-beam rods, and Cometic gaskets!!! And, I have a 4" crank that may or may not ever see the inside of that block... lol!
Hope this helps!
PLEASE, no comments about the firewall wiring; I'm a VERY sensitive guy.... LOL!!!