How many CFM for my 340?

O.K., I know about the math calculations for CFM, that's why when I read 750 would work on a 340 had me questioning if it was too much CFM, but the concenus has been it works. That all depends on it's use.

And after rebuilding an Edelbrock 1407 and replacing the 1405 (which I just started having problems with) and running it today, I'd have to agree, the 750 CFM works. Not the same as before, certainly differently. I can run in 3rd or 4th at a slow speeds and not have to down shift too get the car moving quickly again. But, I also noticed if I'm in 1st or reverse and I goose it several times, while riding the clutch while turning it loads it up to stall, whereas it did'nt before. But, then again that could be accelerator pump settings, jetting, or metering rod variables. The car does accelerate more quickly. It sounds like the 800 CFM thermoquad (71 factory) would be the best for low speed driveability (spread bore) and upper RPM go power. Back in the day a small block Mopar A body (340) was a force to be feared.

If I get rid of the air shocks, I have to cut the wheel wells, or get rid of the street slicks and Weld Pro Stars and I'm not ready to do that. Besides I like the way the car looks and it's intimidating. If I break it my son can weld it better than it ever was.

The traction bars were installed in an attempt fix a rapid acceleration condition feeling like wheel hop or spring wind up at higher speed. It didn't fix it. This is my first HP small block with a 4 speed stick. But, interestingly for the lack of fixing the problem, they match the car body color and look mean. I'm also going to install subframe conectors next to see if that helps the problem, or look elsewhere.

Thanks again for all the responses..........