I don't want to hijack this thread, but as a novice engine builder, I made the mistake of bolting on my heads before I checked the valve-to-piston clearance, and had them torqued and didn't want to take them off, if I could find a way to check the clearance in some other way.
Here's what I did. I'd like to know if this is a viable way to do this...
I bought some very weak (VERY weak) "checking" valve springs and installed them on both valves, for one cylinder. I had already degreed the cam, so I positioned a dial indicator on a magnetic stand, over the retainer/rocker arm, and put a long breaker bar on the socket in the center of the crank, and turned the engine over VERY slowly, and when the crank position was getting close to where valve-to-piston interference might possibly occur, I set the dial indicator to zero, and used physical pressure (it didn't take much; the springs were very weak, as I said) to push the valve further down until it touched the top of the piston, noting the distance beyond where the cam had positioned it. Then, keeping minimal pressure on the valve, holding it gently downward, against the piston, I had someone else very slowly, turn the crank, and watched the dial indicator closely, to ascertain the minimum amount of valve clearance I'd have at ANY crankshaft position, on both sides of the cam lobe, and on both valves.
As it turned out, it had beaucoup clearance on both valves (dished pistons and a cam that only lifted .525"), but is there any reason why Melissa couldn't use this method, if she gets all her other problems ironed out?
I am asking... I am advocating nothing... just here to learn from others' experience. I have NO experience with this, beyond what I just told you, so any comments and advice will be welcome.
Thanks for listening.:read2: