4 spd guys
Jason96R said
Would like to know all the parts needed for a swap a 727 to A-833 on a 360w/ a 8 3/4. My car puts out around 425tq right now so I was also wondering about anything that would have to be bought to keep from blowing clutch/trans. I know a few things, but to make sure I have/know everything for the swap/build of the trans. Plus others may have the same questions. Thank you for your help in advance.
Jason Foster
I'll take a stab at this since I swapped over to a 4spd. behind a 360 / 8.75....
First things first, get the correct flywheel for an EXTERNALLY balanced 360. They go for about $200-275 new. Use a stock 318-340 flywheel and you'll have an absolute
horrible vibration, starting at 2,400 until your vision blurs.... :shaking:
Pick up a Dakota clutch pilot bearing. Check out the previous thread in this section on my questions about which one the get. Make sure that your crank is bored deep enough or you'll have to trim the tip of the transmissions input shaft. I don't have the exact depth, but it'll be at least 1.5" into the rear of the crank.
Aside from the obvious, a transmission and driveshaft, you'll need the bell housing and linkage. Make sure you match the front bearing retainer on the tranmission with the bell housing opening. There are 2-3 different sizes for the various body sizes. Again, I don't have the exact part numbers, but I'm trying to give you a solid list of items you'll need to research. :scratch:
A set of clutch/brake pedals are fairly common on e-Bay for the A Bodies. Prices range from $40 - 120, depending on that days insanity level. The linkage from the pedal, out throught the firewall to the Z bar, then from the Z bar to the clutch fork. Again, there are two different lenght clutch forks. I think the A Bodies are the longer of the two. You'll also need the Z bar mount for the bell housing and the ball stud that mounts to the left side inner frame rail area.
All the linkage bushings,rubber boots, and retainers are still availible from Mopar Performance. The clutch linkage & hardware is out there from either Brewers Perfromance, Mancini's, or that damn e-Bay.... For a clutch I have a Centerforce dual friction disc and pressure plate/bearing set. It cost me about $300. Don't cheap out on this piece unless you want to get good at swapping clutches if you intend to beat on it a bit.
You might want to consider a Scattersheild instead of a bell housing while your doing this, but that can add another $100-300, again depending on catching a deal. Small block Scattershields don't pop up too often on e-Bay. I waited for 2 months before grabbing my used one for $150, only to see one sell THE NEXT WEEK for only $85. New! Roll the dice.... These cost about $300 new.
A good tach, shift light, and rev limiter are purely optional and a matter of preference. Again, it depends on what you plan on doing with the car. If it's a driver,
maybe go with a low level clutch. If you plan on beating it up, go with the Centerforce. Very low pedal effort, incredible grip.
And finally, a GOOD shifter. A GOOD
NEW shifter with new bushings and levers. I prefer the Hurst competion plus. Oh yeah.... a transmission hump that will need to be welded in to replace the open hole you'll saw-zall out to get everything to fit. Repro's go for about $80-110.
Best advice: Buy a shitbox thats rotted to death and grab all those little pieces in one shot. Spend the real money on wear items, such as the clutch and flywheel. And of course, scan e-Bay on a daily basis. Once in a while complete 4spd. set up's are up for grabs. Just be cautious with the seller and remember, a bad transmission will reveal itself on the road test.... After you busted your tail!
Good luck, and to steal someone else's saying: May the 4spd. with you! :salut:
