Temporary Paint Job

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RogerK

RogerK

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Looking for some advice here. My car is all in primer covering some complete body work, some covering the rest of the car for cosmetic reasons.

I know keeping a car in primer for log periods is not a good idea and it is about 2 or 3 years from a real paint job. Since it is a rolling restoration I am considering a temp paint job with either rattle cans or buying a cheap spray gun and some NAPA paint to seal and protect the car until that day comes.

What say you? 8)
 
From the sounds of it no matter which way you go it will be temporary paint!
Which type of primer did you use? Rattlecan or gun?
If you used rattlecan, go with rattlecan for the paint.
I bought an inexpensive gun for primer and a gallon of flat black (aka hot rod black now) from a local parts supplier, should not be an issue of the primer lasting or not, but on what type of environment it was laid in.
Good Luck! (I draw a vacuum at body work, but I can paint good!):color:
 
Buy a cheap spray gun and epoxy primer, sand the car 220-400 grit, spray 2-3 good coats. Will dry with a semi-gloss rat rod finish and seal the car and give you a good base for a future paint job. No real uv protection, but better than rattle can lacquer based primer which acts like a sponge..PPG DPLF primer is available in 6 colors.........

Bob
 
BobsDart said:
Buy a cheap spray gun and epoxy primer, sand the car 220-400 grit, spray 2-3 good coats. Will dry with a semi-gloss rat rod finish and seal the car and give you a good base for a future paint job. No real uv protection, but better than rattle can lacquer based primer which acts like a sponge..PPG DPLF primer is available in 6 colors.........

Bob
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I second that. Use black dp epoxy ,then top coat it with a semi gloss clear.That will seal it and give it UV protection.
 
Paint for cars . com has single or bc/cc paint very cheap. If done right, you could present it as "done" and then in 2-3 years when you want the Foose version, you could say you "changed your mind"
 
Primer is porous. Hence the reason why it's primer and not topcoat. Constand exposure to UV breaks it down, constant exposure to water will work it's way through. For corrosion protection of the metal under the primer your best bet is to blow something meant as a topcoat over top of it. Something other than spray bomb.
Never ceases to amaze me watching guys put a car in primer, no matter what the primer, drive it for a few years, blow paint over it and then scratch their heads over the rust bubbles popping out less than a year later.
 
Wolfy2U said:
From the sounds of it no matter which way you go it will be temporary paint!
Which type of primer did you use? Rattlecan or gun?
If you used rattlecan, go with rattlecan for the paint.
I bought an inexpensive gun for primer and a gallon of flat black (aka hot rod black now) from a local parts supplier, should not be an issue of the primer lasting or not, but on what type of environment it was laid in.
Good Luck! (I draw a vacuum at body work, but I can paint good!):color:
Click to expand...

I get it, you suck at body work! ROTFL
 
ramenth said:
Primer is porous. Hence the reason why it's primer and not topcoat. Constand exposure to UV breaks it down, constant exposure to water will work it's way through. For corrosion protection of the metal under the primer your best bet is to blow something meant as a topcoat over top of it. Something other than spray bomb.
Never ceases to amaze me watching guys put a car in primer, no matter what the primer, drive it for a few years, blow paint over it and then scratch their heads over the rust bubbles popping out less than a year later.
Click to expand...


Exactly.

I would lay a couple good coats of Epoxy or quality urethane primer to seal the body work and then a coat of urethane clear or single stage urethane over it to seal the epoxy.

DON"T take it to Maaco or use any other cheap paint unless you want to redo all the body work you already done. Remember any cheap crap you put on it will have to come off and you will end up having to reprime and block the whole car again.
 
Thanks for all the responses. The car is nowhere near straight for paint and I will be doing more body work in the mean time.

Only some sections were taken down to bare metal for sheet metal replacement. Others simply sanded and primed. The whole car is done with good quality rattle can high build primer with some lesser quality underneath in some areas.

The car has been garaged for the last 3 years, but most of the major panel replacement was done prior to that with the car out in the elements for about 5 years.

I suspect that because of that the car should be brought down to bare metal (or at least to the original paint) and re-done prior to final body work and paint and re-do some of the filler work in the process.

Still, for the next 2 to 3 years, even if it means more work later, the body would be sealed and have a color. I've had the car 13 years and have been driving it for 3 years now. I'm having too much fun to take it off the road yet for a full teardown.

Thanks again for the input.
 
I have no real place to spray it....so am going with the foam rollers like the Corvair guy used. My Dart is half original yellow on the bottom and the previous owner sanded and primed the top half to go two tone I guess. So I am broke and tired of looking at gray.

Sorry...didn't mean to hijack the post....

A.JPG
 
You could sand it and tape it up and spray it with SEM hot rod black. It is a good urethane.
Matt
 
The good quality primer sounds like a good answer to me, if you are still doing body work on it.
I had an old beater (Ford Crown Vic patrol car) painted by a local Maaco a few years back . . . not a bad job. I used the car for working off duty jobs, didn't want to take my good car.
 
I did my Scamp with John Deere Blitz Black tractor paint for temporary color and protection. Shot through a cheap HVLP gun in the driveway. Added advantage to a flatish finish is it hides imperfections in the bodywork.

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RedScampi said:
I did my Scamp with John Deere Blitz Black tractor paint for temporary color and protection. Shot through a cheap HVLP gun in the driveway. Added advantage to a flatish finish is it hides imperfections in the bodywork.
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For temporary paint, tractor enamel isn't a bad idea. It's holds up decent and is CHEAP.
 
I had a similar dilemma with the 73. The original paint was letting the primer show through in places, and I didn't want to run around in primer. I took the car to MAACO and had the single stage clearcoat paint job done. I knocked out a few dents first. The photos were made not long after the car came out of the shop. A year later, it still looks good. The paint is easily scratched, but buffs out fine. I feel like it was $500 well spent.

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I'm getting alot of good ideas. I may just get a cheap spray gun and paint it myself. It's something I have never done and since its going to be "Temporary", if I screw it up, I know its going to change soon enough.

Thanks to everyone for the input. :thumbrig:
 
RogerK said:
I'm getting alot of good ideas. I may just get a cheap spray gun and paint it myself. It's something I have never done and since its going to be "Temporary", if I screw it up, I know its going to change soon enough.

Thanks to everyone for the input. :thumbrig:
Click to expand...

That's a good way to get practice. The metallics take a lot of practice, so it won't hurt.
 
Bamacuda, Perfect Translation!
I had MAACO do a quick paint on a little p'up a friend had for her son. They laid the paint good, was cheap, and you can pick a color from thier cheap line and have a decent top layer till you can get it done up right.
Although if you want to say ya' done it yourself, cheap gun and tractor paint works wonders. Used to paint derby cars for friends of mine and used it.
 
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