13's, stock '71 318 short block.
Best thread evar. Sounds like fun. I almost did this and still really wish I had.
Hey, thanks for chiming in. I think it's a good plan. As said before, it will be the easiest way to get it down the track without spending a fortune. I just have to save up a little more green for the major components. Caltracs are close to a grand, heads are $900+, wheels and tires are several hundred and on and on. Even a 'budget build' is super expensive. I could buy cheaper stuff I suppose but these things will translate well for the future 340.
Having a good hooking chassis can make a little horsepower go a long way. I had an (ahem) 5.0 Mustang. Bone stock throttle body to pan with some chassis improvements and lightening, went 12.90s with a 4.10 gear and slicks. Car still weighed 3200 pounds with me in it.
Chassis is ET, horsepower is MPH AFAIK.
I've been interested in NHRA stockers for a while now, those guys really seem to understand how to maximize a factory-type chassis set-up with a comparatively limited amount of horsepower on tap. It's basically gears, good converter and Caltracs. I suppose that's the way any car could run no matter what the class though.
Steep gears on the street can be the toughest part, no one wants to drive on the highway with 4.56:1 gears. The low gear set in the 904 should help this combo, makes a more advantageous final drive ratio in first and second.
You're lucky on your shortblock. My '71 318 slugs were .110 in the hole. Combustion chambers were about 70cc also, but you'll alleviate at least that going with aftermarket heads. I would err on the side of small with the camshaft. Dynamic compression losses with a too-big cam will kill your horsepower. That camquest software is notoriously optimistic.
I've read in a few places that the '71 in particular had higher compression than some other years. Not sure about my own block though. I hoping it's no more than .060" down. I'll report on that when the heads come off.
In regards to the cam, I actually asked Comp for a suggestion and they said the XS268S would be good.
I'd highly recommend spending money on the converter. Done right, its really cheap ET $$$/tenth wise.
Custom converters are not cheap. Probably over a couple G in some cases. I'm hoping an off-the-shelf one will work OK, something under $500.
I'd go with a bigger carb if possible. My bone stock 318 was pretty well matched for a 670cfm Holley with that LD4B intake.
If I get the RHS heads I could run a 750. The intake runner is 179cc or something like that.
Oil control is a cheap place to pick up power. Windage tray and good oil pan (and good oil) are all worth ET.
Not sure I'd install a windage tray with the block still in the car. I've read in some places that it's not worth a whole lot and other sources say they are a must have. I'm on the fence about this one.
My '71 Dart 318 car was 3150 approximately with bench seats, 50 lb air conditioning compressor, ridiculous heavy power steering, etc. I imagine you should be able to get it under 3000 pretty easy.
On my NY registration card it says 2985 but I'm thinking that can't be right. Maybe without any fluids.
Either way, the diet has already begun - A/C system is out, heater box is out, radio is out. Thinking a fiberglass hood will help. Have lightweight Wilwood calipers from another project that never got used, an aluminum master cylinder and skinny front wheels. Converted to floor shift/manual steering. Aluminum intake (yours!) aluminum water pump, taking out the bench and putting my A100 van seats in yada yada yada. Shooting for 3,150 with me in it, I'm 170.
Whew, that's a lot of talk. Hope I can get this thing rolling soon, I'm crawling out of my skin thinking about it. Just have to wait for the money to come in. Sold my beloved magnesium wheels last year in hopes of using the cash for the Dart and ended up paying bills with the money instead - kills me to think about that.
Was thinking about asking for a raise at work soon, haven't destroyed anything lately...