R/B 413 Super Stock Valiant Signet Project
So, I have the V8 Center Link in. And there's a bit of a snag. At full steering, the link hits the pan where it sweeps up to the idler arm and to the pitman arm on the drivers side. It's not much, and I can't go up any more with the motor or I'll be in the floor where the transmission bolts to the bellhousing. I'd like at least a 1/4 inch between the floor and any part of the motor/bell/trans.
So, here are my options as I see them:
1. Heat up the pitman arm and idler arm and lower the center link's height in the car. I see this as an absolute last option, as it will affect the cars steering when going over a bump.
2. Cut away the oil pan only in the area it would need to clear the center link. The pan that's on the motor is not the one I'll be using, and it's dented. So it's no loss to try this one. If I'm right, there will be ample clearance in the pan at the edges to scallop it enough for the center link to clear by 3/16" or so, and still clear the rotating assembly. The motor plate will not allow the motor to rock or move in any way, so this seems the best option. I only need 1/4 to 3/8" I think at the area where it hits, and it'll only penetrate the pan crosswise about an inch. But the scallop will taper away to nothing as it gets closer to the end of the scallop at the center.
3. There's some "mystery" pan that will do everything I need with no welding.
You can see in this image that I found that the rotating assembly doesn't really hang out of the block that far, so I think option #2 will work fine.
So, I have the V8 Center Link in. And there's a bit of a snag. At full steering, the link hits the pan where it sweeps up to the idler arm and to the pitman arm on the drivers side. It's not much, and I can't go up any more with the motor or I'll be in the floor where the transmission bolts to the bellhousing. I'd like at least a 1/4 inch between the floor and any part of the motor/bell/trans.
So, here are my options as I see them:
1. Heat up the pitman arm and idler arm and lower the center link's height in the car. I see this as an absolute last option, as it will affect the cars steering when going over a bump.
2. Cut away the oil pan only in the area it would need to clear the center link. The pan that's on the motor is not the one I'll be using, and it's dented. So it's no loss to try this one. If I'm right, there will be ample clearance in the pan at the edges to scallop it enough for the center link to clear by 3/16" or so, and still clear the rotating assembly. The motor plate will not allow the motor to rock or move in any way, so this seems the best option. I only need 1/4 to 3/8" I think at the area where it hits, and it'll only penetrate the pan crosswise about an inch. But the scallop will taper away to nothing as it gets closer to the end of the scallop at the center.
3. There's some "mystery" pan that will do everything I need with no welding.
You can see in this image that I found that the rotating assembly doesn't really hang out of the block that far, so I think option #2 will work fine.