so I blew reverse again.

timopar said
well I spoke with the man who built my valve body and he tolled me sometimes he has trouble with 727's and the way to fix em is to install a restrictor in the feed orifice to the front band.
I researched this mod and Im sceptical this will fix my problem, I think a new VB is what i need cos it shifts very very softly as it is, even with a blocker rod in the accumulator and a 5.0 kickdown lever.
Could anyone recomend a VB for me please? mancini have thisone http://chucker54.stores.yahoo.net/manvalbodtor.html anyone used one before? will it need the the front band orifice restrictor?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/TCI-...ptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories
this one from tci cant be used with my 5.0 lever, I dont realy want to have to change to much more in the tranz ya no. its bin in and out of the car and pull apart and back together a few times now :disgust:

A restrictor to the front band??? Never heard anyone having to do that because the rear band is applied in drive. There have been cases where a shim is used to replace the rear servo inner spring to eliminate 1st to 2nd gear overlap but that doesn't sound like the problem unless the overlap is very severe. I have had to use a restrictor to the front clutch pack cause it can come on too fast before the front band releases and cause overlap going into 3rd gear but there's absolutely no reason I know of to restrict the front band. In fact a restrictor would probably make 2nd to 3rd gear overlap worse cause it wouldn't allow the front band to un-apply as fast. Sounds like you need a new valve body and a new trans mechanic.

I don't think the Mancini Cheetah valve body you show there has low band apply so I would NEVER use it on the street because it puts a lot of strain on an already overworked sprague. That's why it says "Not For Street Use". The Cheetah Pro-street valve body part #17675 or 17676 depending if you want forward or reverse pattern. Both costs more but have low band apply. Only problem with most manual VB's is they rarely allow you to use the 5.0 lever. At least none I've seen lately do. Most prefer the 3.8 lever although some will allow a 4.2 lever. Changing the lever isn't really hard to do. When your already swapping the valve body you just have to pull the starter and access cover and you can get a long 1/4 drive extension in to remove the plug holding in the front band lever pin to unscrew the plug and and back the pin out enough to swap the lever. Then re-seal the plug and install things. Takes about 30-45 minutes extra.