bad coil ground?? missing badly after moving coil
If this helps - here is a basic wiring diagram of a module-type ignition system. Match the wire colours in your harness to what you see here.
J6 & J7 (usually brown and grey or black and grey) are the wires between the pick-up and the module. Measure with an ohmmeter at the module connector - normal is 600 t0 1500 ohms.
J5 (Black with yellow tracer - might be different on yours) connects the negative side of the coil to the module. The module supplies a ground on this wire to energize the coil, disconnects the ground to fire the coil. Disconnect the wire fro the coil, attach a test light between the wire and the positive terminal of the battery and crank the engine. Test light should flash while cranking.
J9A (Pink most often, may be red with or without tracer) supplies the positive side of the coil from the ballast resistor. In crank mode, the J9 (Pink or Red - with or without tracer) wire from the starter relay by-passes the resistor to supply full cranking voltage to the coil for start. With the key on, all wires connected, there should be about 5-7 volts at the positive side of the coil. With the starter relay energized, but the engine NOT cranking (disconnect the brown wire going to the starter solenoid) there should be full battery voltage at the coil positive.
J10A and J10C (almost always red) supply full charging system voltage to the module and ballast resistor respectively. Key on, engine off there should be battery voltage at both of these locations.
if all this checks out, and you have verified the coil wire (ohmmeter - about 7000 ohms/foot), the rotor, the cap, the coil (you replaced it, right?) and the air-gap on the pick-up, then your problem is non-ignition related. In my opinion.
If this helps - here is a basic wiring diagram of a module-type ignition system. Match the wire colours in your harness to what you see here.
J6 & J7 (usually brown and grey or black and grey) are the wires between the pick-up and the module. Measure with an ohmmeter at the module connector - normal is 600 t0 1500 ohms.
J5 (Black with yellow tracer - might be different on yours) connects the negative side of the coil to the module. The module supplies a ground on this wire to energize the coil, disconnects the ground to fire the coil. Disconnect the wire fro the coil, attach a test light between the wire and the positive terminal of the battery and crank the engine. Test light should flash while cranking.
J9A (Pink most often, may be red with or without tracer) supplies the positive side of the coil from the ballast resistor. In crank mode, the J9 (Pink or Red - with or without tracer) wire from the starter relay by-passes the resistor to supply full cranking voltage to the coil for start. With the key on, all wires connected, there should be about 5-7 volts at the positive side of the coil. With the starter relay energized, but the engine NOT cranking (disconnect the brown wire going to the starter solenoid) there should be full battery voltage at the coil positive.
J10A and J10C (almost always red) supply full charging system voltage to the module and ballast resistor respectively. Key on, engine off there should be battery voltage at both of these locations.
if all this checks out, and you have verified the coil wire (ohmmeter - about 7000 ohms/foot), the rotor, the cap, the coil (you replaced it, right?) and the air-gap on the pick-up, then your problem is non-ignition related. In my opinion.