best disc brakes for sbp

I have been looking a while too, and am the referenced cheap Mopar b***. I have 10" SPB drums and won't go BBP since I bought $$ SBP Cragars and won't change the rear-end (or manage 2 sets of wheels). Scarebird seems the best affordable off-the-shelf, but I don't like redrilling rotors for ever and ever. SS Brakes and others are as much or more than I paid for the car, so my wife would scream (again).

I don't see a problem using 5x100 mm rotors (though few cars use them). The rotors on my 96 Voyager fit SBP with little slop. The hub register is bigger, but plastic "hub-centric" spacers come in many sizes (ebay), so might be able to center on the hub. The offset is about right, depending on how the caliper mounts. Issues are the hub "tophat" ID is slightly too small, so must file the hub OD ~0.050". If I go this way, will try reducing in place on the axle w/ die grinder (hub spins to grind evenly, don't have a lathe). Of course, I prefer not permanently changing my car. The other issue is the ~10"D rotor is slightly small. Clearing the hub OD seems to be hard (95 Camry rotors are 5x100 but small tophat).

Another possibility are the original K-H rotor, ~$38 now at PartTrain. It probably clears the hub OD (Centric doesn't give tophat ID). Biggest concern is the deep offset, which brings the rotor almost to the spindle. That could work if the caliper bolts to the inside surface of the "spindle plate". It also may give less "brake steering", i.e. tendency to turn wheel if front brakes aren't balanced. Of course, the lugs will center perfectly in the rotor holes, for those above who are concerned, but Mopar designed for "hub-center" rather than "lug-centric" anyway. Once centered, the lug nuts hold everything tight.

Re calipers, consider only those w/ a removable bracket, which are now common. I bought '95 Camry calipers since they bolt to the front surface of the "spindle plate", which helps clear the spindle. I found nothing similar in Mopar. Pre-'92 Toyota calipers also work (uglier). Ideal would be aluminum 4-pots (Brembo) from some Jaguars and special Lexus or Camry. Also Wilwood racing ones, though not sure they work w/ a 1" thick rotor. Most appear to bolt to the rear of the "spindle plate" on a fairly standard 2-bolt pattern, except Vipers and Corvettes that use a vertical bolt. A pair of new Jag front calipers went for $370 on ebay recently (not that brave yet). T-100 and 4 runners also had a 4 pot floating caliper, but in cast iron. The K-H calipers don't excite me since cast iron is heavy and I read about piston problems, though silicone fluid (Dot 5) seems to fix that. Multiple pistons are claimed to apply more even pressure across the brake pads, but are also a bigger maintenance issue. I would only use them to show off, and would therefore paint them bright red.

The tricky part is the afore-mentioned "spindle plate". This is a custom plate you must machine, or hope someone like Scarebird designs. It could be $$$ for a one-off. Aluminum is light and easy to machine, though more concern with cracking. However, the spindles on my 02 Chry Twn & Country are aluminum and the caliper bracket screws directly into tapped holes in the aluminum (no steel inserts).

Re master cylinder, I have a power one from a Plymouth breeze, mounted to '73 Duster standoff brackets. Actually, an Intrepid booster is bolted up now, but I didn't like its slanted reservoir. I only test fit on the car so far (painting). I have a '68 Satellite front/rear distribution block w/ warning switch. I assume no proportioning valve since a drum/drum car, and have a separate adjustable valve.

Finally, a few thoughts on brake design as an ME who has never designed brakes. I don't understand why people say drum brakes can't stop a car. If they can lock up the wheels, that is sufficient (actually too much, so pump them). The main problem is they can't do this repeatedly. The energy is stored once in heating the steel and takes a while to dissipate. Rotors dissipate heat faster since they move air like a fan impellor. For repeated stops like track racing or continual downhill braking, drums overheat sooner and fail (pads melt, fluid boils). Drivers shouldn't ride the brakes downhill, but since they do, the government mandated front disks ca 1973(?). Even w/ rotors, you must trade-off weight against heat storage. 11"D, 1.25" thick racing rotors may be twice as heavy as 10"D, 1" thick rotors. You may only need that capacity to brake from 150 mph. Daily driving doesn't require it. My '96 Voyager weighs more than my Dart, so those rotors should suffice. One advantage of drums is the amplifying effect as the shoes jam against the drum, so you can get by w/ manual brakes. However, if the shoe suface gets sticky they can lock up.

Will update someday if I ever realize any of these plans. I just want to trade ideas. It is drums for now.