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THEWHITEZOMBIE

Mopars an Heavy Metal
Joined
May 22, 2004
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Location
Burney Ca.
Hey yall! Well the zombie is close she fired up last weekend for like 4 seconds and did the same today i dont know what the hell is up her butt! I thought that it was the timing but we checked and checked it agian!the cap is on #1 and it still just wont go!new plugs all but 3 up front ran out of them :? new wires and new points for the dist. We just cant figure it all out! its getting plentty of fuel we bypassed the the fuel by running the wire from the elec. fuel pump to the batt. when we need full to save the trouble! the carb is being a little beach it back fires and spits fuel out the top when the secondary flap thing is closed?WTF?We just dont get it! need help?i know this makes no sence but help me ou the bvest u can!Thanks let me know if u need anymore info illl try my best to get it out of my head!
MIKE :twisted:
 
hi, had same type of problem when i first fired up my 340, especially spitting fuel out the top. turned out to be shmutz in fuel filter, and in primary bowl. had too take filter and front of carb apart twice too get it all cleaned out. but i had also installed a new fuel tank, and line. no more problem. hope your problem is as easly solved.

tony
 
i know that i need to clean my tank but the car did run i drove it to school for weeks like that no prob. now it just wont run anymore with the cam and all the work that iv done to get it cool agian i know that i ned to fix the tank but that shouldnt stop it from running.Right?
MIKE :twisted:
 
anyone hav any ideas what the hall is goin on with her?i need ot fixed soon the car show is on the 7th
 
If it's back firing through the carb. your timing is off.Probably advanced to far.Try loosening the distributor and have someone turn it while your cranking it over.Goo luck!
 
Did you degree in that new camshaft when you installed it? Are you still running points distributer, or have you switched to electronic? Did you check the ballast resistor? Did you make sure the firing order is correct and all the plug wires good? Could be lots of stuff, just be systematic and check every little detail. Good Luck.
 
GotDart said:
Did you degree in that new camshaft when you installed it? Are you still running points distributer, or have you switched to electronic? Did you check the ballast resistor? Did you make sure the firing order is correct and all the plug wires good? Could be lots of stuff, just be systematic and check every little detail. Good Luck.
No we didnt degree the cam :( we should of but we put it how the old one was!and its still the points im thinking that if i get the kit id fix it all up good!hears what we found we put the #! piston TDCdist.is on the #1 wire we crank it over and she is 180 of we arange the #1 wires to fire how she likes it and it cranks and shes 180 agian!WTF evey time we change anything she goes back to 180 off,i hav no clue is in what hell to do the pugs ,wires are new new points and condencor! idont get it this is the second weekend shes done this!Help me if ya can people!Thanks MIKE :twisted:
 
You need to bring it up on compression stoke TDC to verify your dist position. #1 andf #6 cyl are at TDC compression 180º apart.

Start over with the dist position and go back through the firing order making sure you are placing the wires according to dist rotation.
Firing order is 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2 just in case.
 
Go get you dad to put it back in time and the right wirring order sounds like you put the distributor in wrong also when you changed the cam did you atleast line up the dots on the timing chain and the cam gear. You dont have to degree it with a wheel to get it to run but you do have to line up the dots the wheel will just optimize your performance and ensure that it is degreed IAW the cam card.
 
chad72duster said:
Go get you dad to put it back in time and the right wirring order sounds like you put the distributor in wrong also when you changed the cam did you atleast line up the dots on the timing chain and the cam gear. You dont have to degree it with a wheel to get it to run but you do have to line up the dots the wheel will just optimize your performance and ensure that it is degreed IAW the cam card.
we got the timing right on the spot where the car wants to run at its all set at the stok point from the mark on the dist. and the block,my comp. 120 on all give or take alittle! we did line the dots on the gear drive(milidon) dot to dot like i was told by all of u and my dad!I think that something is opening when its not sopost to open like the intake or exhaust valves or could they be opening to soon?we came to the conclucion of tearing it down agian for the 5th time now and getting the cam done right with a wheel! and looking into a ofset cam key if needed and anything else that we need to get it set up the way i like it its pissing me off two weekends now its been giving me crap!its a new cam so this cant be good and a new CVR starter that i hate to beat on like this!Also WTF is up with the carb spiting up gas not a lot if any just it spits up when the chock plate is closed all the way?WTF?With that im thinking its a timing thing but we hav it all done right the plugs fire on the #1 at TDCthe cap is where it needs to be so we think its the cam!Right? :twisted:
 
at his rate it looks like shes not going to make it to the Mopar car show for her first time :cry: :cry: :cry: :cry:
 
everyone is more then welcome to give me some ideas my dad has done all the tricks he knows from when he was younger even my older friends came to help and still we came to the same thing time in and time out!Thanks to all agian for the Help!MIKE :twisted:
 
I still think you are after a timing issue, re-check your points as well.
Dot to dot is firing on #6 cyl. dot on top to dot on top is firing on #1.
You could be kicking back through the carb because dist is 180º out or you have a plug wire misrouted. I would not tear the engine down again based on how you said you aligned the timing chain.
 
six pack said:
I still think you are after a timing issue, re-check your points as well.
Dot to dot is firing on #6 cyl. dot on top to dot on top is firing on #1.
You could be kicking back through the carb because dist is 180º out or you have a plug wire misrouted. I would not tear the engine down again based on how you said you aligned the timing chain.
we hav it all on the #1 TDC the dist. is on the #1 plug and the cap is facing the #2 piston but the #1 plug is first to fire all the wires are in there right spot i lost count how many times we checked that out and we set the gear drive dot to dot and we had the motor at TDC when we instaled it!
 
what if we set it to fire on the #6 piston like u said dot to dot is on #6 whould that be the fix?or not?we hav it TDC on #1!
 
Have you pulled the dist and moved it 180º since you put it together originally?
If you haven't you are 180º out.:)
 
we did that yes and she was up in flames so it want that way!HAHA my eyebrows felt that one HAHA!The way we hav it it seem like she wants to go i mean it has that few rumbles then she stops! i dont get it i still think its the cam idea but i dont know for sure!
 
if it was me I would pull the timing cover , pull the dist and bring number 1 piston to TDC then check my cam marks ensure they are lined up to fire on the 1 drop my distributor back in making sure the rotor was on the number 1 plug wire, them rewire the distr to firing order them try it should be close. If not Pull a valve cover and get you a pull handle have one of you buddies turn it over by hand and check your rockers to make sure you have not bent a rod or stuck a valve. By chance did you pull the intake?? If so check for major Vac leaks.
 
Is it possible that the cam can be set up wrong and in this effect the exhuast valves or the intake valves from opening in the right order?would this make the car not run cuz eveything eles is all right!The motor wants to go it has them little fire points like its gonna go then it stops and its just cranking over WTF?MIKE :twisted:
 
THEWHITEZOMBIE said:
Is it possible that the cam can be set up wrong and in this effect the exhuast valves or the intake valves from opening in the right order?would this make the car not run cuz eveything eles is all right!The motor wants to go it has them little fire points like its gonna go then it stops and its just cranking over WTF?MIKE :twisted:
anybody know?
also whats the comp. on a 318 stock cuz i think that im kinda low the test yesterday was all at 120 on compresion!that seems to low to me i would think that i should be at 145 or 150!right?if this is right then my valvetran is set wrong which would go back to the gear drive and the cam set!right?i would thinkthat the cam is 180 off i dont know if this could happien but its a shot right?Im going to do a few more thest to see if things are right if not then sat. shes getting the tear down agian!Help me out guys this is hard stuff!Thanks
MIKE :(
 
318 is probably at 8.4:1 compression ratio.
120psi in all cylinders is fine.
Cannot install cam 180º out.
 
new prob i took the valve cover off to do one last test and i found that one of my rocker arm had blown o hole where the puch rod meets the the arm! so it blew a hole where the two meet!will this cause my motor not to run/ :? MIKE :twisted:
 
If the intake valve is stuck open it will, or if the exhaust valve is not opening it will cause you grief.

How much lift do you have??? Did a valve kiss a piston or did you damage it in assembly?

never mind, must be an exhaust valve not opeing or you wouldn't have 120 psi compression.
 
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