Anybody want to relocate their rear springs?
Just use a 1" lowering block will get it within 1/2" of stock ht. or 2" block will make it 1/2" lower than stock. The big advantage in doing this is it is WAY faster and just as strong as the box method. Essentially you remove 4 nuts to remove the stock bracket and reinstall this one using the same 4 nuts. A few tack welds on the inside if your racing and your done! If your car needs the spring holes moved forward or backward to ensure straight tracking or to center tires on wheel wells better, just order it with the corrected dimensions.
You can use a 49" rear end (axle flange to axle flange)
Here's a pic of a car with these installed. There is no motor, tranny, radiator or front/rear bumpers or fuel in it. The rear tires are MT H50-15's which are about 25" tall. Oh and I have a 52" rear (flange to flange) in this car so those tires could actually be moved inboard over 2" more!
Just use a 1" lowering block will get it within 1/2" of stock ht. or 2" block will make it 1/2" lower than stock. The big advantage in doing this is it is WAY faster and just as strong as the box method. Essentially you remove 4 nuts to remove the stock bracket and reinstall this one using the same 4 nuts. A few tack welds on the inside if your racing and your done! If your car needs the spring holes moved forward or backward to ensure straight tracking or to center tires on wheel wells better, just order it with the corrected dimensions.
You can use a 49" rear end (axle flange to axle flange)
Here's a pic of a car with these installed. There is no motor, tranny, radiator or front/rear bumpers or fuel in it. The rear tires are MT H50-15's which are about 25" tall. Oh and I have a 52" rear (flange to flange) in this car so those tires could actually be moved inboard over 2" more!