How to build a 13 second 340 Duster
Thanks a lot guys, just the kind of "seat of the pants" info I was hoping for. I have good basic mechanical knowledge/skill as I worked as an aircraft mechanic years ago but I'm not up on all the performance parts/lingo.
abdywgn:
moper:
I presume the 10.5 comp 340 could breathe a little harder and make use of the slightly larger valves so it makes sense to me if I raise the compression and the heads are being rebuilt anyway to enlarge the valve. I wonder though if this would only help at high rpm (good for track time) and hurt low rpm performance (not so good on the street).
I'm guessing 10:1 is around the upper limit for todays's pump gas? Chamber size would be per factory J head.
AdamR and Longgone:
I'd like to do it with as many factory parts as possible, but would like to achieve the goal the first time around.
I'm guessing you assume header use, which would maybe bring a 340 built to 68-71 specs up from 275 to near 300 hp (can't imagine not letting it breathe). I recognise factory hp may be under-rated. Anyone seen dyno numbers for a factory 340?
Maybe one of those calculators could give an idea if 300 hp should move 3300 lb 1/4 mile in under 13.
Dusterb suggested Caltraks to get the power to the ground (by PM) and I like that idea.
Below is a pic of tire size and overall look I'm thinking of, likely less the scoop since I doubt I'd use a high rise. Not sure what size the tires actually are but I'm guessing he's around the max without moving springs/tubbing. I'd go wider on the front of course. I was thinking I'd need more like a 4.11 gear, but then there's abdywgn's idea of using only 3 gears. A friend suggested low gears and a 4 speed overdrive, 3 gears at the track, 4 for cruisin.
The input is much appreciated.
Thanks a lot guys, just the kind of "seat of the pants" info I was hoping for. I have good basic mechanical knowledge/skill as I worked as an aircraft mechanic years ago but I'm not up on all the performance parts/lingo.
abdywgn:
At present I don't have a tranny. I do have a bellhousing. I'll check into your clutch recommendation. I presume by sidestep you mean dropping the clutch.
I presume here you refer to the vac secondary, allowing it to open sooner. I have no idea about "cut sliders". Also not sure about the adjustable valvetrain.
moper:
Understood. The goal is 13.0 with reasonable amateur driving skill.
Not sure about "better machining". Not sure how pistons are "set to 0 deck".
I presume the 10.5 comp 340 could breathe a little harder and make use of the slightly larger valves so it makes sense to me if I raise the compression and the heads are being rebuilt anyway to enlarge the valve. I wonder though if this would only help at high rpm (good for track time) and hurt low rpm performance (not so good on the street).
I'm guessing 10:1 is around the upper limit for todays's pump gas? Chamber size would be per factory J head.
AdamR and Longgone:
I'd like to do it with as many factory parts as possible, but would like to achieve the goal the first time around.
I'm guessing you assume header use, which would maybe bring a 340 built to 68-71 specs up from 275 to near 300 hp (can't imagine not letting it breathe). I recognise factory hp may be under-rated. Anyone seen dyno numbers for a factory 340?
Maybe one of those calculators could give an idea if 300 hp should move 3300 lb 1/4 mile in under 13.
Dusterb suggested Caltraks to get the power to the ground (by PM) and I like that idea.
Below is a pic of tire size and overall look I'm thinking of, likely less the scoop since I doubt I'd use a high rise. Not sure what size the tires actually are but I'm guessing he's around the max without moving springs/tubbing. I'd go wider on the front of course. I was thinking I'd need more like a 4.11 gear, but then there's abdywgn's idea of using only 3 gears. A friend suggested low gears and a 4 speed overdrive, 3 gears at the track, 4 for cruisin.
The input is much appreciated.