OEM Street Class

Umm, unless you've got some very deep pockets, I'd stay away. Its a neat idea, but the rules are too loose. They're going to make the class more expensive rather than cheaper.

What's the prize money? Not that it matters. With heads-up, there's always some yokel who'll spend 10K on an engine to win a jacket.

That class is going to go much faster than that in short order. I'll bet you could run mid 6s without porting on a junkyard engine. I can't believe they're running a 10" tire for 1/8 mile racing? Seems like all that stuff around here uses an 8" mandate. Traction will never be an issue with that gigantic tire.

The claim is way too high. Because they dont want to tech it, there aren't any rules limiting what you can do to the bottom end (cut up cranks, crazy light rods, gas ported pistons, etc)

If someone put a gun to my head and made me run it...

Id go with the micro block combo. Always always go with the lightest combo, especially if you can run the same heads either way. Besides, that makes the "domination" penalty that much less meaningful.

Probably a 5.9 Magnum engine, or maybe a regular 360 with 308 heads (beehive springs with tool steel retainers. Good porting, Hollow stem valves, etc) . Nitrous needs exhaust flow. Get the crank polished and edged, coatings everywhere (lots of short block options here), custom pistons probably gas ported, total seals, get an expensive oil pan, custom cam from Bullet Cams. Victor intake. Quickfuel or Pro Systems carb. You have to be careful with rings. Theres lots of power there, but they can make the motor show bigger than it really is when being pumped. Another thing to watch here is if you use a 16V system. The faster crank actually makes it show bigger too. Electric water pump. Id probably still run an alternator even though the rules don't require it.

904 with all the tricks. Ultimate Converter spec'd for motor combo.

Cal-tracs/mono leafs either 8.75 or Dana, though IMO you're better off with the 8.75 for quick ratio changes. 4.56 or some equally ridiculous gear, depending on what the cam will turn.

Spend a lot of time getting the car light. Get the fiberglass that they allow. Gut all the street equipment, etc. Tiny little radiator. The goal is to get the thing as light as humanly possible within the rules and add ballast back if you manage to get it under the minimum. You'll need a weight box at least for when the scale inevitably reads out of whack, or when you need your 100 pound weight adder.

Money money money money. I don't think I'd spend that much with these guys that clearly don't know how to write rules.

I don't know if you'd be competitive long term or not, but you should be able to run way faster than mid 6's in the 1/8th.

Steve