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But only with the cast crank 340/360 engines, which each had their own unique balancer. 318s were all internally balanced regardless of whether they were cast or forged crank, and used the same balancer 9with the timing mark and bolt hole differences already noted).

Depends on your perspective of what is saveable- I've gotten two "parts cars" that were better than the original project car, and the roles became reversed. They came from further south than here in Wisconsin, but it can be amazing the difference even a couple hundred miles can make. A few...

Deleted them to save weight. The only thing you need is the tracks. A lot of guys even deleted the inside door latch handles and linkages- just drop the window and open the door with the outside handle. Door locks went bye-bye too.

If you've got the iron water pump on the '70 and up timing cover, I'm shocked that you can even see the timing marks to use the timing light- kudos! The marks should be accurate (reasonably) as long as you've got the '73 damper on it with the '70 and up timing cover. No need to change anything...

It could be in the distributor, but it has nothing to do with points as long as they're set properly- is it a single or dual-point?). If the advance mechanism is sticking, it could be as simple as lubing up the plates and pivots, I wouldn't be surprised if it's never been done for 50+ years)...

Unbolt your lower ball joint from the spindle and let the LCA drop some more, and make sure the adjuster is backed all the way out. L and R on the bars go to the rear of the car.

...will hide your timing marks behind the loser radiator hose and pump inlet, making them very near unusable. Not to mention the fact that if the timing covers were swapped, your balancer needs to have it's timing mark relocated, since it will be nearly 90* off with the timing marks switching...

If you've actually got an 8.25 in it, it'll last just fine. I doubt that you do, though; since you said you have small bolt pattern and 8.25s never came in small bolt pattern- you probably have a 7.25. An A body 8.25 would be a good upgrade, and much cheaper than a 8.75- but as said, they only...

Did you connect the car's Ign1 and Ign2 wires together before you connected them to the feed for the ProComp dist.? If you're using the voltage setting, you won't get a reading measuring across the + and - terminals.

Yes, what ignition is it and how was it wired in? Incorrect wiring/installation would also cause your symptoms.

Come on, guys- that thing needs a turbine engine! Chrysler turbine engine - experimental 1970-1980s single stage | eBay

You wired an electric fuel pump to the fuel sender wire?? The fuel sender works off of a 5v lead from the instrument cluster, nowhere near what the fuel pump requires to operate. You run the risk of frying your IVR (instrument voltage regulator) and possibly gauges. DON'T attempt to operate...

Proof positive that time travel is possible.

There are threads on here about the part needed to convert LA heads to "through pushrod" oiling, basically hollow pushrods with oil holes and rockers compatible with pushrod oiling; use the search function. An easier option would be an earlier Magnum block ('92-'94ish) which were still drilled...

What's your preference- black or cream? (sounds like I'm ordering coffee...) CHRYSLER VALIANT VF VG 2 DOOR COUPE REAR INTERNAL VENETIAN BLACK | eBay CHRYSLER VALIANT VF VG 2 DOOR 1968-JAN71 REAR VENETIAN CREAM | eBay

^^Agree. A bigger concern would be which water pump/tc cover you're using- '66s were designed to use the (pre '70) cast iron water pump (driver's side inlet) which is considerably shorter than the '70 and later aluminum water pump (pass. side inlet). I'm not sure you'll be able to find a short...

...And then there's times when I really don't miss the '70s. Some things are better off forgotten.

True Well, with few exceptions every competitive NHRA TF and FC car for the last 60 years has been Chrysler (based) powered (I didn't say ALL) regardless of what bodywork they're wearing. Unlike NASCAR, which specs every detail of the car from body shape to suspension design to engine spec and...

I pretty much gave up when they stopped being "Stock Cars". All they are now is spec racers, doesn't matter who's emblem is on the hood.

Go to http://www.brewersperformance.com/products.php?cat=110 - they have all kinds of reference photos. Shift lever will depend on which mechanism you use, bayonet or two-hole, early or late style- (both they will work).

The first, second or third time? :lol:

Actually, '63-'72. I believe the very early '60-'62 Road Toads are the same, too- but not certain.

That's not an adapter on the brakes- that's just the stock hub. The rotor attaches to the rear of the hub via a set of swedged wheel lugs. All stock stuff, including the upper A arms. If you don't believe me, compare it to the factory service manual and you'll see. They're available for free at...

OP has Kelsey-Hayes SBP discs, so standard small ball joint UCAs. Being a slant 6 has no bearing on the fact that it has disc brakes, they were an option available with any engine. Don't know of anybody offering new or repro small ball joint upper control arms, so a wanted ad would be your best...

'66 and up consoles don't fit between '65 and earlier seats, that's why the factory narrowed the seats in '66. OP, use the search feature, there's lots of threads on here about adapting aftermatket shifters into the '65 console, especially the Hurst Pro-Matic which looks basically stock. Here's...

Along the same lines, cut a slot above the hole and insert a U or J speednut of the appropriate size, threads behind the sheetmetal. Or if you don't want to cut a slot, just JBWeld a flat speednut to the back of the sheetmetal. Or, really cheap and easy- take a 2" piece of wire (doesn't have...

Warriors... come out to plaaay...

USN MQ-25 Stingrays.

Torque AT THE REAR WHEELS. It can be achieved in the engine build, in the rear end gears, and to a point with the torque convertor by altering the stall speed; most often a combination of all three- usually gears, TC, then engine; in that order. Think of the torquiest thing you can, let's say a...