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https://www.tapatalk.com/groups/racingfuelsystems/what-to-do-about-winter-fuel-in-hot-temperatures-t1459.html?sid=ddb6411031c1524c93a664dac43cbddb#p14152 Using stainless steel instead of plain steel tubing is another way to reduce heat transfer.

The only way for backfire or popping will be heard through the carb is when the fuel-air mix be ignites before the intake valve fully shuts. Since it only happens when starting I would first suspect the initial (AKA base) timing is too far advanced. With a mechanical (solid) lifter, it may be...

Yep. But the funny thing is some restorers want only certain things correct and not others. Like the correct paint overspray but not the correct distributor or wipers. Makes me scratch my head, but that's their preferences. I'd be interested in the 273 dual point just because I want to run...

Even though Justin and I do not fully agree on the approach to setting up the timing, having him come and help you is IMO the hands down BEST decision. You will not see an immediate MPG boost because tuning burns up fuel. But with the following tankfuls you will see improvements. The more...

I had it done to a set of early production TTI shorties. Didn't think the pricing was out of line. That's very subjective of course. It's the only product discussed here that is actually a ceramic coating. All of the others have some sort of polymer binder and any ceramic materials are mixed...

I can't recall if the old early A-Body Dougs were 1.5 off the head. Mapes has them on his Goldfish. Those were something like three sections on one side. That's the only off-the shelf ones that come to mind. 1 5/8 is far more common that's for sure.

Brian Slowe made them. You know I have Pipemax and went as close to Elston's suggestions as we could. I have a few extra flange plates for future projects or if someone else wants because Brian wasn't comfortable getting into blacksmithing the tubes into the flange. Not going into more here...

Nah. Mine has 1.5" tubes off the heads. But its only a 340 ;) Now as far as find them in the marketplace, well that's another story.

Should be no problem. Swiss and German was always available but limited distribution and got expensive. But GOEX started shipping retail again last Fall. https://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/threads/goex-back-in-production.165006/

Rolled a handful of paper cartridges last night. 4 with just powder for misfires and a 90 gr FF with .69 My buddy was asking for his powder back as he's going upstate and might want to shoot. No idea when I'll get a chance to use it.

Maybe. He had no plan. Having the space is great, but to actually make it pay he's gotta list and sell it. It's a lot of cash to tie up.

The grass always looks greener on the other side. LOL Pretty much anything from the factory was built to hold up for the service life. Finding a legit original spec HEI module is like finding a legit original spec ECU, or Duraspark or you name it. On the opposite pole we can look to the one...

https://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/threads/wire-harness-tape.306335/post-1970742782 https://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/threads/vendor-needed-for-cloth-fabric-tape-non-adhesive-type.457581/

Ha!

The tail hanger location was changed for '68 from what it was in '67. Also the cross body fuel tank strap was changed to two for - aft straps providing a little more room fro the tailpipe(s).

Warm air duct conducts heated air from the exhaust manifold 'stove' in an effort to provide a more consistant air intake temperature. and yes, faster warm ups. The vacuum diaphragm (aka vacuum motor) usually is controlled by an air temperature sensitive valve in the air cleaner housing...

That sums it up. Same coil AFAIK.

You already had much skills and experience building. I just had some insight with the fuel and timing. Lots of guys here who could help with getting it fired up with a new carb and distributor. Tuning will come later. @dads71 Check the Shop Manual for which way the clutch should face when...

There are others here who have a lot more experience than me. I have an area or two of knowledge and a bunch of learning the hard way. H'm. OK. If the carb hasn't been taken out of the box, then this will be a bit different story. How about the distributor and ECU? Did they come with...

Further comments in getting ready to tune and drive. Proform "Mopar authorized" Ignition kit. Not much info posted about the internals of these. So my advice is this. If its running OK, then the first opportunity measure the timing versus rpm from idle on up through 2000 rpm. Then if your...

...and fuel, and possibly a wideband (AFR estimate based on oxygen left in the exhaust) and some other stuff. I will guess they ran the timing at 35* that they measured at 3000 rpm. Since we don't know the engine temperature for the pull, best to start with something more like 32* at 3000 rpm...

If its not leaking and there is resistance when when you turn the portion that holds the fan while holding the attaching flange. Some clutches had a thermal control on the front - that one probably does not. best part is that it will fit and be spaced properly without spending a bunch of time...

IIRC There's a more detailed breakdown they did about the cost of the crude - how much it costs to get out of the ground, then how much to ship it, etc. Some states regulate the retailers to try to stop price gouging. IIRC NJ somehow doesn't allow big jumps in prices.

A lot of places have additional restrictions on RVP. https://www.gasbuddy.com/go/summer-blend-and-winter-blend-gasoline At least one state has a drivability requirement. Its one of the midwest states IIRC but I forget the details.

they're allowed get to cut it with more benzene tolulene and cheaper stuff to improve low temperature starting. \ Unfortunately we get some hot days here before switchover. Then I can smell the fuel and the car doesn't like it much either

I paid more than that in the wrong location. :( But I wanted the tank full before heading home. So it goes. No idea why its going up now. The refineries don't have to start sendin summer fuel until May 1.

...but depending on placement and airflow probaly OK. The areas where its very close seem limited to heat sources. Brake fluid should be good to 300 *F. On the other hand portions of the fuel begins to vaporize at just over 100 F. By 130 F, a significant proportion will be vaporized -...

I would have to dig through my notes. Of the top of my head, depending on wheel offset, the front end height and t-bar size, 225/60-14 may be OK, and 225/70 will occasionally contact at the front fenders - turning under compression. Also check rim width against BFG's recommended widths for...

I don't see any substantial contradiction between what is posted here and the snip you posted. Don't get hung up with the casting material. While the change in material does effect rates of heat transfer, and the change in dimensions for a given change in temperature, they are also a different...

Just got these, but I don't know if they are really new, or just new old stock. Wilde brake spring tools - made in the USA. Save me the trouble of fixing the "pro" tool that came apart last week. I've bought brand new high quality Stortz paint scrapers made in...