Search results for query: *

Why I asked was that carbon buildup on the valves / seats can cause it to not let them fully seat. And with trying all the other things, tuning, timing and such. Get some fuel system cleaner and run a bottle. I was doing a leak down on a “timed out” race motor a few weeks, and the valves were...

In the simplest terms. What makes a car go is some fuel and a heavy right foot. So don’t lift….

It might be easier for DTM to back it up if he had a car to test it on… I know what is king on the Cosworth motors coming out of the shop that red line around 10k from the 60’s and 70’s. 3 liters, 500 HP and 295 TQ, every shift is 7k to 10k. And then go back and look at the 18k rpm F1...

How old since last rebuild? Seems like a valve is not fully seating..

The best pricing for basic micro cloths is at Costco.

“Jack” from crap in a box is just as creepy…

My 72 duster had the hardboard, I had to pull it due to a mouse house. I was looking and holes for the bows are not there like in my 70.

oh that dent will buff out…

These are all unibody cars. The car is the chassis and the chassis is the car.

Volare’s are not a 60’s car, so something is off

What’s the date code in the side of the block? Only other options are a bore scope down a drain back in the head or pull the intake…

Keeping the heat down is some whoha BS, but I guess if it’s 5 degrees cooler it kept the heat down. Now keeping the tubes from rusting and looking nice n silver it’s worth coating…

And they (Fram) are garbage filters. But yes they fit all the motors just like Wix or Baldwin. As for oil. Penn grade, driven, Amsoil, swepco, or if you must used a “brand name” Valveoline VR1

You can pull the center shaft out and make a new shaft / coupler For your application.

Think the key interlock is different on the 73. But should work. The main thing is the length as the power steering column is shorter and has a different coupler than manual steering.

Looking at the firewall below the brake master I’m not seeing the clutch push rod that would be there with a stick car.

@Dan the man we be spending your money….

A car with a motor would be a good start… the Dodge 3500 sure has a ton of torque, but it’s light on the HP’s…

I saw some Indiana Jones looking douche with the leather hat and all sitting in a Walmart parking lot charging his “truck”….

I use to have Mint Mobile. They run on the T-mobile network. It’s prepay and cheep.

It should be printed on the edge of the race

You might get away with it if you have the pistons coated. Look up Line2line coatings…

While the people sit there signing Kom ba yah waiting for their “car” to charge…

Looks like a dumpster fire on wheels

I’ve used this type a lot https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0C153TS9D?tag=fabo03-20

I bet you could find one at the hardware store that has the right length shank, may have to cut the threaded part down the size. Use a hack saw and then belt sand / grind smooth

They work good. I got one from the paint shop for about 30 bucks. Just have to run it slow as you can burn the paint.

We use this stuff when we remove the decals from the race cars. It’s works well and does not mess up the paint.

Look at Plumbing AN Fittings and Hose Way easier to search than using summit, just copy the item code and paste into summit search..

I powder coat shop would be around 100 bucks. I got the factory black airgap a few years back. Thing still looks like new.