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There was a bunch of plastic casting flash and other random things on it. I just sanded them off with a die grinder with a roloc disc and did some final smoothing on those spots with some plastic filler. Valve covers, and intake are painted with Cerakote.

Smoothing the intake and making things color match go a long way with knocking the ugly off. I always do my best to hide wires and hoses. When they can’t be hidden, I try to run them in a neat manner. But to answer your question, yes it does look good. It looks huge in there. Can see the ground...

Thanks! It's been quite the journey if you start all the way from the beginning!

It's just an orange motor in a black car.

I got the headers, clutch, bellhousing, and starter on since this picture. Still lots more to go. I'm going to get a buddy to help with the trans. That thing is heavy! My worn out shoulders don't care for awkward overhead lifting anymore.

It's in! All that's left to do is everything.

I have to say the HDK sure made things easy to go in. I originally had the engine mounts set to have the engine all the way back. This proved to make things very tight on the firewall and also made the head contact my already shortened steering column shaft. I decided to pull the engine full...

Funny how the easiest tasks always make the largest visual impacts. It's the small things that take forever and go unseen. I got the frame rail sprayed and figured I'd shoot some cerakote too. I may have mentioned I was able to find the same size radiator with inlet/outlet on the same side made...

Nice! Lots of space in there. Interesting that the pilot bearing failed. Has it gotten harder to shift?

Not much to update that is picture worthy. I did get the wife to come out to the garage to help me ring out my engine harness. Happy to report I didn't screw it up! I did get the frame rail primed and sanded a few times. It's masked and ready to paint. Hoping to get this done at some point this...

I like those also. I actually like the CF5V more, but they are only available in 19" & 20"

The perfect solution to the kickdown problem is a manual transmission...lol

You and me both. That's likely one of the biggest things I'm anxious to learn. I know what it use to MPH in the quarter mile from previous years at Moparty. I'm going again this year, so I'll know right away how the 5.7 compares. I think the weight difference is insignificant, but I'll run it...

Does the ECM not control the fuel pump? Seems like it should. You wouldn't want your pump constantly running while you have the key on and the engine not running.

Z-bar modification is done! I typically save small projects to do during the weeknights. All in this likely took just over an hour. I think I'm going to cut that whole corner off the bell housing. Things are just too close right there for me and I don't see any reason for it to be there...

Checking the small things off the list. Z-bar modification done!

That is a lot running on a 30A fuse. I think I have a 25A on 2 fans. I think I'd rather the fuel pump and fans be on a circuit with a relay and independent fuse. Also think you're on the right track with the fuel pump first. As I'm sure you know as the flow increases on a pump, so does the...

Check out Forgestar. They have some standard wheels but they can also customize offsets. I'm assuming they just turn the mounting pad down to what you need. Nicely priced as well.

I use my car differently than you, primarily a street car that I autocross. As you can imagine, autocross does a good job of stirring the oil on top of several RPM transients over the course of 40-50 seconds. Prior to running a catch can, I would get lots of oil residue in the intake manifold...

I love the idea of using a cuda tank. So many people use the mustang tank because they are fairly easy to make a flange and drop in. The only problem I have is now the tank is your trunk floor. This is much better.

Probably since I'm sure it will be more of a show car than go car, but small brakes with big wheels look dumb.

Not a ton of progress due to other obligations, and I needed to rewire my boat trailer lights. Whoever designed those pinch type connectors needs to have his whole house wired with them. What a crap design, especially on a trailer that goes into water!!!! Anyway, I got the car pushed outside to...

It's a Deutsch connector, 47 pins. You can use the connector assembler on Wirecare.com to figure out what you need. Sometimes you can find the parts on ebay with better pricing if you search by part number. Wire care is easy because it takes the guesswork out of it. I have these all over my car...

I lied. It came out tonight. This really wasn’t the plan, but while I when I was finishing up disconnecting the trans wires and driveshaft, I was like, 4 bolts and that trans is on the floor. Well, one thing led to another..

I drained the oil. No big chunks came out, so that's good...lol It honestly still ran good and revved like normal. The squeak clack sound is what got my attention.

I caught it somewhat early. I haven't spun it over to look at the other side of the cam, but the part I can see is fine. Probably just needs to be polished. Likely just needs a teardown and clean with a new set of lifters.

I don't have a prop valve since I run 4 wheel discs. But the lines do pass near the location of the stock valve. The car already had port EFI with a MS3X controller. It has an in tank pump in the Tanks Inc tank. I autocross regularly with varying levels of fuel and never once had a fuel...

Yep. Finally going to be one of the cool kids. I'm hoping to have the 408 out by tomorrow night. After that I just need to trim the frame rail pinch weld, swap the trans over, and it's going in!

Torque converter bushing removal tool 9000... Good for one use only...

Forgot to mention what I did there. The factory rods connect to a "mushroom" head type stud. They easily knocked out of the z-bar. I think they were just pressed in and not even welded. (aftermarket z-bar). The pedal was another story. If I remember correctly, I had to cut the head off and drill...