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Flex plate is important, yes. It transfers the energy from the crankshaft to the torque converter. It sounds like you’re looking to be at least double the original power level, which would justify the move to a SFI flex plate, even if you don’t need it to pass a track inspection. It’s pretty...

With 99.999999% certainty, yes.

They’re likely to flex with the added spring load and acceleration from the roller. Also, the ratios won’t get the listed lift figures from the cam. You’ll have to measure for push rods once together. And, you’re really going to want adjustable to get the preload right. Not trying to...

Absolutely, the rotating assembly needs to balanced, with the balancer, which you should get new. Take the flex plate (also new), rod bearings, wrist pins, locks and rings for the balancer too. I’d recommend a new set of rockers (PRW work I think?), and you may have to get a correction kit from...

Another vote for sniper. Heed their warnings for keeping the sniper wires (to sensors and such) away from ignition wires as well! I run mine with MSD distributor locked out and 6AL box. Also agree with the instant restart difficulty. I think it’s just a little too much fuel, gets the plugs wet...

Haha, yessir!!!

Less interference and visibility in the engine compartment, love it!

I like that idea (using the same point for the limiter). Yoink!

Worth the cost difference to me

Here are screen shots for over under comparison…Sorry if they’re grainy. These tests are cool to see, and I’m glad he went through all the work to set them up, but the “pay off” is disappointing without a wrap-up or some kind of final side X side (guess I’m spoiled by all the episodes of Engine...

Broke em out on the tree!!! :thumbsup:

Thanks for inserting the link! He didn’t say it in his intro (had to read comments), but this is the combo with the Trick Flow heads. Heck of a little street/strip motor!

Nice! Happy accidents are the best!!!

Checking with my body guy on this. Will PM you this evening!

PM coming your way

I don’t know, because I’ve never done it. Here’s some math to consider/make a judgment call from though: The air horns are 8.5” dia., which is approximately 26.7” circumference. At 0.5” clearance, that’s a surface area of roughly 13.3 sq. in. I don’t know your engine, but let’s say it’s a 408...

This setup looks a little cheaper if you’re wanting to try it out: Chrome Velocity Stack Air Cleaner Set of Two fits 4 BBL Carburetors | eBay I would agree that the filter and screen media may be restrictive. So, you could try pulling it to see if the velocity horns alone provide a benefit...

Falls in with the old expression, “dress for the job you want”..?

Thank you sir!

Thank you, he is!!! He’s hard at straightening and shaping the body lines, stuff that’s hard to get good pictures of until primer is laid down, which will be a way off yet. But, we’re back to making progress, and most importantly he’s healthy again!!!

Quick little update, took a few months off after my buddy/body man needed some pretty major stomach surgery. Got the fuel cell mounted:

That’s how I’ve done it, albeit I just use the upper jaws on the caliper rather than my bore gauge for the main journal measurement…just quicker. The fun part is trying to get the lower jaws on the caliper to sit flat on the deck (others who do this more often are probably more efficient)...

Turd looks the same no matter what’s written on the cake

They should stall a little higher when they hook…hook and book!!!

Not sure if I miscommunicated, will try to add clarity: Sometimes they miss. I’m betting he’ll get it right with even more info this time around. Still in agreement here! Yep, and as you said later, getting closer to your peak torque is the path. Should contribute to better ET, but the added...

Looking at your dyno print, I would agree that you want some more RPM to get off the line. And it’ll certainly raise the RPM on the shift to get it there, but they may have to find a bit of a balance. Just make sure to give them all the info they’re asking for (weight, gear, tire dia, tell them...

No, just 904. 10-15% is great for track, terrible for street. Converter Slip = torque multiplication (to the approximate range listed above…too much and it’s just a bad selection). Also, slip = heat of course. I should of course add that this is for the bracket racing we’re doing here. Soggy...

Roughly 14% converter slip across the stripe. Mine was 12%. We both had roughly 1200 rpm on the shift drop, the second shift on the data log I grabbed happened to be a little short.

Just for reference, my Ruster weighed 2830 on the line, 60’ was usually 1.57-1.60, and 1/4 was usually 11.6’s. The Wallace calculators line up pretty close, albeit my car launched a little harder and was softer on the big end (cast iron J’s vs Bill’s much better top end). Never dyno’d it, so...

That’s what she said :lol: