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Temp starts out at about 42* when things are cool.

When I first start driving the Vintage Air system I have cools as expected. After about 30 minutes the compressor starts short cycling, whether I am stuck in traffic or driving on the highway. Just before it starts short cycling the compressor gets noisy when the clutch engages. Obviously when...

Be sure the thermostat you have is a high flow one like this Stewart Components one, not all are.

Yes, the smaller starter is a must with those headers. The Dougs were the easiest I've ever installed. The problem came when I upgraded my torsion bars to fatter ones. Now I had interference issues so had to pull the headers and put some dings in them. Frankly, there are pros and cons to...

It *should* not get a signal with the wire disconnected. Sounds like the signal wire is touching a ground somewhere along its path. That would explain the erratic things you're seeing on the gauge.

~13.6 volts

I'd say water was getting in there. Remember steam cleaning our engines by pouring water into the carb? Sure did the job of cleaning those chambers & piston tops!

One aspect is how loud it is in the car while cruising down the road with the windows closed and the other aspect is how loud it is when the windows are down. For me, I want a much quieter muffler while cruising but don't want to take a chance on buying one that is not what I want. I typically...

When I married my wife, she had just bought her first car (a 69 Charger 318) from her mom. I replaced the points for her and said that would be the last time I would ever do that. The distributor was in the back of the engine and was really hard to get to. I replaced her points with the DC kit...

Thanks. I'm open to all possibilities at this point. As I work through this and get success I will post an update.

The quickfuel carb ran OK, but not great. It made gobs of power as the secondaries opened. When I hit it I could spin the tires at 40 MPH. I put some Nitto tires on the back to try and get better traction! Biggest issue was the poor low speed "manners" that it had. Edelbrock and Holley style...

I've had it for a couple of years but only tried it on another engine without success. Yeah, after I tightened the door and it had no effect I figured that was not the solution. The carb runs great on the primaries, very snappy compared to the QF I was using. We'll get to the bottom of this!!

Is there a way to search the membership list to find members in my area? If so, how?

No sir, that did nothing.

Am using the Performer 440

Yes, I've tightened it up probably 2 turns from where it started.

Thanks. Yeah, I had the AVS2 on my shelf so wanted to try it instead of continuing to mess with my 780. The AVS2 has superior throttle response so really want that style of carb to work. Not sure I would spring for the larger carb though in my street driven car.

I recently put a new 650 AVS2 on my 440/727 to see if it performed better than the Quickfuel 780. My car is a Challenger w/3.23 gearing, all street driving. Am having problems with getting the secondaries to open cleanly when hitting the gas hard. Smooth acceleration into the secondaries works...

Shoddy, dangerous work for a shop to do. Must have hired a minimum wage guy that was never supervised!

Interesting. Blueprint Engines builds their 408 strokers on the Magnum 360 block with hyd roller cam. They have an excellent warranty for the build as well. Wonder if they mod the oiling. @JohnnyMac

TC's today are not what they used to be. The need to get the car moving better is exactly why you would use a better one on the street. Gearing is fine to change, but a quality TC will help immensely.

With all the smog garbage on them you could hardly see the engine!

Why do you want to upgrade the rear? Different gears, current rear worn out? If your current rear is in good shape you might want to upgrade your torque converter instead.

I put a 440 into a '68 Valiant once way before swap parts were readily available as they are today. I love the ease of working on big blocks, but in an A body it takes up every bit of space. Changing plugs is easier if you can cut a hole in the inner fender near some plugs. That little engine...

Yeah, when you get too many hands in the pie it's time for a new pie!!!

...and kept falling off. Could not get enough tension on it. Second was the digital gauge setup. To measure caster, you got the vertical bar at 90*, then got the horizontal bar to 0.00. Turn the wheel all the way one way about 20*, zero'd the gauge, then turned the wheel the opposite way 20* and...

Lookin good!

Was going to use strings and measure the difference between front to back distance of the front tires from the strings. I have turn tables.

I agree, but have had mixed results. A lot depends on the guy who does the alignment. The shop I normally use has a guy that did it for a dealership for many years, but he is as flakey as a $3 bill.

I was looking at getting the bubble type of caster/camber gauge to do my own alignment but since I have aluminum wheels with aluminum hub that won't work. What are you guys using?