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Usually the concern is about using a coil with too low of a primary resistance, which can pull too much current and burn stuff up. My instinct is that you will be fine with the 1.5 but will just get less voltage to the plugs.

I’ll post a picture of how it all goes together. It doesn’t touch any wires or anything in the steering wheel/column. Thats what is confusing me. Maybe I have a junk ground or something

When I press the horn button it will pop over (haven’t tried to have it stay running since the timing it out.) I’ll try all these things and update everyone tonight

I used self sticking body trim. I could have used black but I think red looks good with the tail lights.

No, one package.

They are 1/2 13 bolts but they are special and have a tooth washer. I have a bunch of them in stock here in Danielsville Pa. if needed.

What did you use on the tail light panel to color it between the lights red?

Is this for 2 packages?

We own an engine machine shop. We made it or found it in the bushing cabinet in stock.

It's running these. I've never bothered to check if they're correct. Factory manifolds ...

69 Barracuda 4 speed and automatic shifting consoles. Prefer not to ship, but will if necessary. It will b e pricey I imagine. I am in North Edwards, CA. $200

Have a new Pertronix D141710 dist., need to buy the correct coil to use with it. I contacted Pertronix they state I can only use the 45111, .6omh unit, which a old style round type but when I read on web site , it states .6ohm or higher, I would like to run the 60115 unit, newer style...

Beautiful, what exhaust tips? I’m about to run duals on my ‘67 Commando and looking for inspiration.

Sure, but now the point about one having higher compression is mute since both would get whatever compression the builder decided.

What it should look like.. other than I need to tempt fate and peel that '68 lower decal when the Wife's not looking ...lol

YES!!!! :thumbsup:

I will do this next weekend. I appreciate all of your help!

OK... cool. Thanks for the visual!

You could have not possibly have got that out of what he wrote. Plainly he was speaking of factory stock from the dealership. Nowhere did he say with all that added it would go 15's. Plainly his point was a 383HP 4 speed from the factory running high 14's to low 15's was an underachievement...

But then on the NExT intake swap, you'll spend and extra hour with crowbars getting it loose ???? :D

You always need to know what you have. It is not a good idea to rebuild an engine and not bore the block unless you measure the bores and they will clean up with minimum of material removal. It is not like you can run 10:1 compression pistons on pump gas any more. So in either case you will...

Roll her in flour and look for a wet spot.

A couple years ago I had the hots for at least an Javelin, but I had to settle for the poor , a poor ,man's AMX, a strait six Hornet!!!! :BangHead:

Had a few hours on Saturday to knock some things out. I must have had a brain fart when I originally ordered all my AC parts. I always thought the condenser could be larger. The AC cooled pretty good, but on those really hot days, it couldn't keep up. I once read it best to have the biggest...

that last line... :lol:

I recently put a new 650 AVS2 on my 440/727 to see if it performed better than the Quickfuel 780. My car is a Challenger w/3.23 gearing, all street driving. Am having problems with getting the secondaries to open cleanly when hitting the gas hard. Smooth acceleration into the secondaries works...

I bet it would seal real good. It would be wise to take the extra 15 minutes or so to get it right. You may be fast ,but you're not that fast.

Not on purpose, just old and forgetful Added above

Agree! 68 deluxe interior trim, 1969 console covers, 68-Dash pads, 68 383-S hood callouts, Marker lights etc..etc,.. Major alarm bells on this one!!