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Plan is a 383 stroker, keep it an automatic, 8 3/4” sure grip. Gotta keep the bench seat too!!

I can MIG but I think metal that thick calls for TIG?

I saved the Newport housing, it’s just finding someone around here to cut and weld it back. No shops around here seem to want to do it. Brandywine

First order of business is to find a 8 3/4 axle housing in A-body length. The Newport also gave up its 8 3/4” differential to the project! It’s not a sure-grip though. :(

Plan is to use a 383 block from a 65 Newport and stroke it with a kit from 440 Source.

Greetings! Well, after 5 years at two different body shops, my 67 Dart is finally home! Now comes reassembly! Hope everyone is doing well! Troub

Story of my life!

66, Tried to PM you but your box is full. Looking for a housing.

Dang. Thanks for the reply though Mark.

Meant the gear box…..not the pump.

Have access to most of the tools I need. Backlash, pinion depth, bearing replacement is all part of the plan. I would rather learn to do it myself than pay someone and have no idea what i paid them for or if the job was done properly. Getting the new complete SURE GRIP unit will help make things...

Good advice. Got the caps off, dropped the whole business out and tapped off the ring gear, which was the goal. Pulling this open diff from a donor 65 Newport. Plan on a new sure grip from Doc Diff. Trying to re-use ring gear and pinion. Cost savings plus i like the 3.23 ratio. Had never messed...

Ahh a comedian! :lol:

Then take the ring gear off? Seems like I will have to to get clearance for that screw headed pin. Why the hell Doesn't that book tell me that!?

Trying to remove the cross shafts and i know i need to remove this screw headed pin first but there is no clearance to turn it because if the ring gear. My book isnt helping on this one! Knowledge needed.

Thinking of ordering a Sure Grip unit from Doc Diff. My donor Newport rear has an open unit. Any reason i can't use the donor pinion and ring gear with the new Sure Grip? Its a 3.23 ratio and the look to be in good condition. I like the ratio for The Darts future use and hate to toss good parts.

Very cool Project! Welcome!

See, there you go. Now why can’t Summit say that! Much appreciated Professor. Any recommendations on pistons? Keeping the forged crank as is. Cylinders look to be stock bore, they may be a bit over after a good honing/cleaning at the machine shop.

Thanks Professor! Why the heck doesn’t Summit just list the 20862 kit as good to fit all years 383 blocks?

So this was Summit’s answer if the 2086 Top Kit would fit on a 65 383 block. I’m still confused. What would it matter if the plug angle in original heads was different from 68 blocks on? The 2086 kit comes with new heads so wouldn’t be an issue. Is there ANY diffference in the 67 and earlier...

Had the same issue with my 67, posted my issue in the Wanted forum and was able to have a Member respond and cut out a section from his parts car.

Thanks fellas!!

Have the donor Newport’s 383 torn down and ready to send to the machine shop. Still need to remove the distributor drive gear. I’m assuming I need to pull it out shaft and all but it doesn’t want to come out. I’ve lightly tapped on the bottom of the shaft from the bottom of the engine and it...

Welcome!

As the guy who started this thread let me weigh in with thanks to those of you who answered the original question/ gave your opinions about use of the 440 Source heads. Those of you who chose to use the thread to insult others or to give opinions not related to the original question please...

Makes sense. I was thinking it might have something to do with the valve train.

Yes, I also saw the verbiage in the description that says 1966-…… hence my question.

440 Source states that the Stealths are straight up bolt-on.

Here is an example from Edelbrock for their intakes…..says 1958-…… in title but 66-72 in description. Or am I reading it wrong?