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367 here with Eddies, an AG, and a 750DP. In run my cooling system at 207*, and run unwrapped TTIs. No boiling/no percolation; at least not in the short term. I run a one-piece 3/8 fuel-line from pump to carb, isolated and free-standing off the engine, but still runs in a similar to the factory...

Yeah I agree your question is rather vague. Do you want to swap it into your car?

Yeah so that makes me wonder which one was the lie, or the deception as the case may be.

In about 71/72, I weighed my 70 Swinger 340/4speed at the track, with me in it, it was 3330. I was 140. so 3190 to the Dart with a lil less than half a tank of gas, and the steel slapper bars. She had P/S, PDB, no radio but did have an 8-track and 4 speakers. Yes the jack was still in the...

I had a low-mileage one in 78, and I concur; there was nothing turdy about the 74 Dart Sport 360/4-speed/3.55s. I think tho, that they were lighter than they looked. I sold that car in 80 right after my first baby was born, used the money to buy a 76 Volare station Wagon. 318 with air conditioning.

The 74 360 4bbl was rated nearly Identical to the 73 340. except of course the 360 torque-peaked earlier. Those two engines had all the same parts bolted on to them, making the only significant differences, being their strokes. Furthermore, the only significant differences of the Net engines...

Yur kidding right! The 74-360 is NET the 273 is gross

That may be, but My opinion is this; I grew up in the 60s and 70s, and most of us high-schoolers ran those, on our A-bodies, to get 15s on the backs of our street cars. My Swinger was a DD, and in the 5 or more years I had it, she racked up a pretty good amount of miles; over two years worth...

you are, of course, entitled to your opinion.

I got a lightly used set of these

For long tread life, I run 235/60-14s on a 7.5" wheels at 28psi. Nice ride, and reasonably stable cornering around town, once you get used to the sidewall roll. ------------------------------------------------ On the back I run 295/50-15s on 10s, but the wheels are not quite wide enough. For...

Just slide the axles into the empty banjo, and snug them down with a couple of bolts. Then, measure the distance between the axles on the splined ends. If it is less than the dimension of the spacer, then you have three options. Eliminate the spacer, or Shorten the axles, or Do what I did...

Looks like two smaller primaries and what is often called a Goggle-valve secondary.

I've only seen the insides of maybe two dozen A-bodies from 67>72, but I can't remember ever seeing one where the dashpad and steering wheel were not same color as dash frame. However, the black pad looks pretty good in that there car. But then I've also never seen; a woodgrain console in a...

What clearance did you put them in at?

...up out of the hole at ~007; and with an 039 gasket for a Q of .032, using closed chamber alloy heads. The Ica is somewhere in the window of 61>64 *, I'm having a brain-stall, giving me pressure of about 180>185psi. and she is quite happy with 87E10. A big part of the open-chamber issue is...

Yeah, about the alcohol attacking the rubber, that is a known thing. However, the EFI jumpers on my car made it to 23 years. That is to say, the one at the back from tank-sender to the main line, rotted out and the pump started sucking air. On principle, I swapped the front one out, from...

As for the crossover; Where you set it will depend on at what frequency your main speakers quit making base. You will need some material with deep base content; not kick-drums. I like blues so I'm always after hearing the stand-up base. Drums have a high attack speed and your brain will choke...

Sweet looking ride.

...better, even 195 briefly, on 87E10 since 1999; with OOTB Edelbrock alloy closed-chamber heads and a Quench between 028 and 032; with a 750DP, and 34* Power-timing, which is all she needs.. Your results may vary. if you do a compression test, on a long-time sitting engine; you gotta do all...

The name Rader comes to mind Just so you know, it is possible to put 295/50-15s inside those Barracuda tubs, and lower the car to nearly whatever you want. Here's what I did; 1) I moved the springs inboard with the bolt-in kit; 2) I cut off the perches, set new ones on the springs 3) I had...

AX-15; * 3.83-2.33-1.44-1.00-.79od splits of; .61-.620-.690-.79 NV/Dak; 3.49-2.14-1.38-1.00-.73od splits of; .61-.645-.725-.73 The Dak is pretty tall for your Dart, the belly may get to dragging on the ground. I like the AX and if I was younger, I would put one behind a peppy hi-compression 318

must be getting stupid; IDK.

...pressure, at just 10.2 Scr is gonna be lower than ideal. Using the Wallace-Calculator, I put you down for 1000 ft elevation, with an Ica of 68*, with which the Wallace then predicts is 156psi and a P/V index of just 128; the weakness of which I'm guessing, is frustrating you. So then, even...

Did you forget the cam-specs on purpose? For street; My choice would be; ~80% of the rpm of peak torque, plus or minus 200rpm, rounded to the nearest 100rpm. This depends mostly on the gears. Towards the high side for hiway gears, the low side for performance gears. Thus for a torque-peak at...

please forgive me but I nearly pissed myself laughing when I saw the pic. what brand are those?

It's a small tube, so 72 and older

To Measure; all 4 wheels need to be on the ground and the suspension at normal ride height. If the rear wheels are hanging, the rear end has swung forward on the front spring segments and pushed the driveshaft forward. In the pic, I agree that the rubber boot should not be touching the yoke...

...itself on flat/level/hard ground; with any cam up to a 292/292/108, the biggest that I have tried. The only tricks I will use are idle-timing of 5*, and a couple of tiny holes in the primary throttles. Plus If the piston ring-gaps are too tight, I will change that. If the engine consistently...

Um no, the pushrod length has nothing to do with the nuts backing off. The only thing that can cause the nuts to back off is that they, the adjusters, or even the arms, are no good. But the thing that causes ticking on rockers in the which the nuts are NOT backing off, is another matter. You...