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On the ring gap question, I don’t remember where I had read it but at least one pro level builder who was using the hot water / head gasket / torque plate method used a “bench cylinder” made from a piece of stock bored and honed to “hot bore size” for setting the ring gaps.

That's still worth watching just to hear about "Fairy Dust and Unicorn Farts!" :rofl: :rofl: :rofl:

https://www.amazon.com/GREENWATER-Waterproof-Bootfoot-Cleated-Fishing/dp/B09YHD5SBF/?tag=fabo03-20

That’s pretty slick! Did you run the battery to starter cable through the conduit path next to the sill plate that the rear wiring harness runs through and up inside the kick panel?

In all honesty, I'd go straight for the M1. Especially with the plans for steeper gears in the future. When you swap in the GV overdrive, go straight for the 4.56 gears.

It really depends on the rest of your drivetrain setup, gearing, vehicle weight, and camshaft, but I honestly think the only thing the LD340 would do over an M1 single plane (which is an improved copy of a Holley Srip Dominator) on a 416 stroker is make the car go slower than what it is now...

I’ve seen a homemade one with a 489 chunk in it. Modified to the point of destruction and filled with sawdust and chassis grease.

An example of similar to what you’re talking about. A little hackery of a modern (2002 Dodge Durango) battery tray with a touch of overkill for connections. AGC 2 fuse box mounted to 1/4 inch lexan and connected via a copper bus bar fed by a 100 amp fuse and a separate 8 gauge loop with 100 amp...

On the charging circuit, the fuse should be 130% above rated alternator output. i.e. If your using a 50 amp alternator, you'll want a 65 amp fuse. Multiply output amperage by 1.3 to determine charging circuit size. Or, use a fusible link wire four gauge sizes smaller than a properly sized...

That installation looks really slick! Is that cover a piece of stainless?

Yeah, a removable tunnel with Dzus fasteners is the best option, no argument there!

Access holes through the firewall/floor pan. Add weld in 3/4 NPT bungs for future access with socket head pipe plugs. ARP 800-8204 ARP Weld Bungs | Summit Racing

I got you, it didn’t send earlier. Thank You!

PM Sent

You could probably run 60W nitro racing oil in the Phoenix summer heat without issues in a 12:1 340, and that enviroment is one of the few times I'd consider the 20W50... I have ran 20W50 in some other engines and could tell it absorbed a little more power than 10W40 and it made about 15 PSI...

Looks like a keeper to me! I think that would make a very nice driver with minimal body and paintwork, indeed. I commend you for saving what's left out there instead of letting it go to the recycling heap.

I could't agree more with that statement. It can quickly turn into a helluva expensive education...

I’m guessing PBR uses a ring shim on the crank snout for spacing. Do you have any specifics on those @pittsburghracer?

it should be in the charging circuit at the point where it ties into the positive circuit side of the battery, usually at the starter relay. But, just to make sure @crackedback…

What springs and retainers and how much lift are they set up for?

Always cool seeing a Mopar wheels up!

The fuel sender only acts as a return for ground potential back to the gauge on a roughly 10 to 70 ohm scaling. There shouldn't technically be more than milliamp current to the sending unit. I don't recall right off, but is the instrument cluster gauge voltalge still regulated through the fuel...

The old comp High Energy 268 is also another good choice here. Or even a regrind on an old 360 cam core and lifters. An Oregon 1369 ground onto 108 LSA is as good as it can get here. It’s doable because most stock 360 cores are ground close to a 109 to start with. Hydraulic Camshaft Specifications

It’s just breaking in! Well, maybe just breaking…

:rofl::rofl::rofl:

^^^ ^^^ This Right Here^^^ And sometimes in places you don’t even expect, like the pushrod holes.

I like this cam for that combinbation. 108 LSA & 104 ICL DODGE Howards Cams 710991-08 Howards Cams Hydraulic Flat Tappet Camshafts | Summit Racing

If the SM stuff if it is outfitted with 10 degree retainers and locks, I’d just stick with that. Last I looked, it’s advertised as chromoly, but the real strength benefit is the 10 degree locks and retainers. The steeper lock to retainer angle gives less chance of pull through.

The SM heads are a no brainer here, and that's an especially good cam choice. This spring will get you your desired results with 120 @1.875 installed. Trick Flow Specialties TFS-16893-16 Trick Flow® by PAC Racing Dual Valve Springs | Summit Racing