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I remember seeing that car run early '90's, while it was still a 4-gear, He was yanking the wheels off the ground 3×/pass!!! The 3rd pass I heard somebody saying.."You can't shift against the chip!!!".....lol, I'm guessing He was letting it bump against the rev limiter w/the shifter preloaded to...

That's the best MO, You work those & get great #'s in a tight bore, most cases it only gets better from there...but being these are totally different design heads, I'm curious how they compare with the closer bore proximity, strictly flow-wise anyhow.

But You really ought to be using the bore they were designed for, 3.91", a .030" over 340 bore isn't OE representative......to be accurate..

Whenever valve finish has been tricky, I just creep up on it & go slow with the handle, using Souix grinding oil.

Great machine, does it have the replacement collet/spacer assy., or the original one? I bought the replacement in case, Mine is still OK. I haven't used the white wheel, but it's on the list while I'm doing some service & repair, the brush holders use a choke-spring style wire connection....one...

A 3.50" bore 4.50" stroke is a 260c.i. , that's the biggest Dutra ever did & didn't recommend it for anything more than a torquer street cruiser. The proximity of the cam tunnel etc. will limit how much bore over 3.50" can go, and how much extra crank throw can be had.

There's no speculation, it was sliced & diced 1st gen. heads epoxied together, it was rumored to have been started & failed quickly...photo-op over...

That's probably the best one....

I only see commercials at My Lady Friend's place, no watchy TV at Mine, but I've seen most of those....that detail escaped Me.....lol

See about hooking up with @chargers777 who's looking to go B/RB in a '73 Duster, no locale in the sig, so don't know if a swap is feasible or not.....

Well, I've resorted to this method, if the cured compound & form allow..; Which allowed Me to extract these..;

The Driver's side frame spool mounting ears need cut & moved back ~1.13". The Passenger side can fit if You flip the spool bushing around in the eng. bracket, but the oval holes are larger on the flange end vs the straight end, so You'll need to carbide burr the oval 'til the larger press fit...

That's awesome, I calculated from the event timing & lift split, the duration/overlap,.... & came up with 256°/260°......but My books for a '66 showed .390"/.395" lift????? 2bbl. 383. I wanted to put up an iteration of the 383 I put in the Popo Dippy adding a RR intake & 750 3310 Holley into...

Yes, and I prefer a solid not spring loaded setup, with or w/o a bearing. In this case, the SBM has a retaining plate to locate the cam already, it just has to be up to the task/materials involved. The distance of the gear position should still be checked, just 'cause......

Making sure the cam sprocket is setting the gear the proper distance from the face of the block, & using an effective, positive method of preventing the cam from walking forward, if it moves around it ain't gonna last long.

It does sound like You just need an intake gasket set, & maybe valve cover gaskets as well if they are the same age. If the car idles & runs fine, doesn't smoke, no noises, & compression is good, there's no way I'd advise You to pull it just for a gasket leak. I'd start there, change 'em, if no...

What was the test bore being used?

I have an old factory 318 Poly dual-quad intake, & a pair of rough WCFB's to go with it, I've wanted to get a mill to go with it & go to town on the heads myself. There have been some nice one's offered here on FABO, but a looong ways away, too far to fetch for Me.

Sorry I got here late, lol, yeah the frt T-bar socket/arm would have to be frozen together...that's the only thing that can do that. Either by rust or damage/deformation of the arm. Those West-Coast guys don't know what it's like to deal with that stuff, lol!! I pulled the K-frame, arms &...

The short answer is the 7.25" would've been std. equipment for Slantys & 'teeners, You could always option up in those days, so finding an 8.75" behind them is surely possible as well. 8.25" rears didn't appear 'til '72-'73, so there's -0- chance that was an option in Your prospective ride...

Yes Sir, hence "slightly angle drilling into", in My post....

Afraid so Tom, I've been grabbing them off the stand when I spot them, guess that's over for good.

Part of the problem is the intake face of the Magnum head has a divot or cove where the vertical bolts enter to better facilitate machining, You're not just slightly angle drilling into a flat surface, & the fixture makes locating & controlling the cutting bit far superior.

How many forward clutch frictions does the parts manual show for that '904'...?

Well, Your source + all of Mine (3) call it out as a '78 A-999 L/U behind pass. car 360's. That's a loooong download of trans codes on the 'Dippy' forum, the DC/MP Chassis racing/reference manual, & @VOETOM 's excellent manual. If somebody had a 318 Dippy w/a failed non-L/U A-998, they may have...

They did make a 4028878 non-lock up A-999 the same year, I remember the early '80's & how many folks despised those L/U trannys, it wouldn't surprise Me one bit if that thing was converted 35-40yrs ago. Back then there were a lot of good local trans guys, certainly capable of making the swap...

If it's behind a 360 factory, it is an A-999, and yes it was a LU trans. Input spline count?

:rofl:,........... Oh,.........You were serious....

So sorry to hear, glad He was such a blessing while He was here for You, take care of Your Wife.......

Having read the outcome, I haven't watched it, but I am impressed with emphatic & persistant IDGAF count..........